Jim Whittaker, the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest and a long-time leader in the outdoor retail industry, died April 7 at age 97 at his home in Port Townsend, Washington. Whittaker’s historic ascent on May 1, 1963, marked a milestone in U.S. mountaineering history and helped ignite widespread interest in climbing during a period of Cold War tensions.

Selected from a group of nearly 20 experienced climbers and scientists, Whittaker overcame harsh conditions including blizzard-force winds and temperatures near minus 30 degrees Fahrenheit to plant an American flag at the peak, which stood at 29,028 feet at the time. He reached the summit alongside Sherpa Nawang Gombu, who was also among the first to do so. Their achievement came a decade after the first successful Everest climb by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953.

The expedition went beyond mountaineering, collecting scientific data on the effects of altitude and cold on the human body and contributing knowledge valuable to the U.S. military. Whittaker, known for his physical endurance and rigorous training regimen, lost 25 pounds during the climb. He later described the experience of climbing in oxygen-depleted air as akin to running around the block with a pillow pressed over one’s face.

Whittaker’s fame from the Everest expedition elevated him from a relatively unknown mountain guide to a national figure, symbolizing American achievement during a fraught geopolitical era. Upon his return, he was honored with a parade in his hometown and a Rose Garden ceremony hosted by President John F. Kennedy. A television special about the expedition further popularized climbing among a growing American audience.

Beyond mountaineering, Whittaker played a key role in expanding Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI), where he began working in 1955 as the company’s first full-time employee. Rising to CEO by 1979, he helped transform REI into a $46 million enterprise with hundreds of employees and nearly a million members. Whittaker introduced innovations such as annual sales events and product testing departments, diversified product offerings, and supported conservation efforts.

Whittaker maintained close connections with political figures, notably guiding Senator Robert F. Kennedy on a climb of Mount Kennedy in 1965 and managing Kennedy’s Washington state campaign during the 1968 presidential race. He also contributed to groundbreaking climbs later in his career, including directing the first American ascent of K2 in 1978 and organizing the 1990 Peace Climb on Everest, which brought together climbers from the U.S., China, and Russia.

His advocacy extended to inclusive mountaineering initiatives, such as leading a 1981 expedition on Mount Rainier featuring climbers with disabilities to raise awareness for the United Nations’ International Year of Disabled Persons. Whittaker often cautioned against using terms like “conquering” mountains, emphasizing the immense power of nature relative to human effort.

Born in Seattle in 1929, Whittaker grew up with his identical twin brother, Lou, learning outdoor skills and alpine rescue through the Boy Scouts and the Mountaineers club. After serving in the Army and graduating from Seattle University, he began his career at REI and soon gained recognition for his climbing expertise.

Whittaker is survived by his wife, Dianne Roberts, three sons, grandchildren, and a great-granddaughter. His legacy endures not only in mountaineering history but also in the growth of outdoor recreation and conservation in the United States.