Belfast is actively revitalizing its historic linen industry, a move aimed at reshaping the city's identity a quarter-century after the Troubles. Once known as "Linenopolis" and a major global hub where the industry employed 40% of Northern Ireland's workforce at its peak, linen production largely declined over 75 years ago. However, designers, farmers, and high-profile supporters are now working to re-establish its prominence.

Among those leading the revival is Kindred of Ireland, an independent brand co-founded by designer Amy Anderson and her husband, Joel. Operating a boutique in Belfast's Cathedral Quarter, the brand specializes in linen apparel, including butter-yellow blouses and tweed jackets accented with linen. Anderson notes that the city has undergone significant transformation in the last two decades, moving beyond its past associations with conflict. Her personal connection to the industry, with her grandmother having been a "millie" in Moygashel Linen Mills, underscores the deep-rooted cultural significance of linen in Belfast.

The effort extends to the foundational stages of linen production. Sculptor Charlie Mallon has repurposed his 150-year-old family farm in Magherafelt to cultivate and process flax, the raw material for linen, using regenerative farming methods. Mallon, a former blacksmith, has invested in restoring heritage machinery, with the ambition of managing the entire flax-to-fiber process. He describes linen as "the original performance fabric," valued for its durability and comfort. His traditional processing methods are designed to preserve the long line structure of the fibers, which helps to reduce creasing, contrasting with modern "cottonising" techniques often used in other countries that shorten fibers.

The initiative has attracted notable attention and support. Designer Sarah Burton, during her tenure at Alexander McQueen, drew inspiration from Northern Ireland for her spring 2020 collection, which featured an ivory linen gown on the Paris catwalk. More recently, last autumn, the Prince and Princess of Wales visited Mallon's farm. The Princess, expressing an interest in sustainable fashion, engaged with designers like Amy Anderson during their visit.

Commercially, the renewed interest is yielding results. A six-week temporary Kindred of Ireland boutique in London in 2024 significantly boosted the brand's profile and sales. Another temporary London boutique is planned for this summer, signaling continued momentum for Belfast's re-emerging linen industry.