A recent social media trend has seen London residents turn to platforms like TikTok to review upmarket bakeries and cafes in their rapidly changing neighborhoods, sparking conversations about gentrification and local identity. The phenomenon gained traction after a woman in her 20s posted a video detailing her "perfect weekend" in north London, featuring establishments such as Jolene, Gail's, and the De Beauvoir Deli.
The video prompted a wave of comments from locals who expressed unfamiliarity with the businesses. Among them was 21-year-old Moses Combe, who responded with a viral video questioning the depiction of north London life. Combe subsequently launched his own series, dubbed the "Endz Department for Research," where he visits and reviews upscale cafes he would not typically frequent. His initial visit to Jolene, where he purchased a hot chocolate, sausage roll, and tiramisu cake for £14.20, led him to describe the food as "decent" and the experience as "giving Gail’s Pro Max." A crowdfunder to support Combe's series, aimed at investigating "the change going on in our own back yards," has already secured over £2,500 toward its £3,000 target.
Comedian and educator Kobi Coker, 27, also contributes to the trend, posting reviews of what he calls "gentrified spaces" he notices while cycling to work. Coker, who has reviewed establishments including Dusty Knuckle bakery, Jolene, and Pret A Manger, once spent £17.30 at Dusty Knuckle, praising its egg and bacon hot cross buns as "absolutely sensational." He encourages followers to visit Dusty Knuckle, citing its social enterprise work with at-risk young people.
Another reviewer, Daniel Poon, 27, focuses on exploring diverse cuisines and trying new things, often stopping strangers for recommendations. His videos cover a range of venues, from local eateries to upmarket cafes and even mainstream chains releasing culturally inspired products, such as Pret's ube drink, which he found lacked authenticity compared to its Filipino original. Poon believes the willingness to try different cuisines reflects London's diversity.
Business owners have offered varied perspectives on the sudden social media attention. Matthew Roberts, operations manager at Jolene, welcomed the interest, stating, "It’s all very positive. It’s really nice for people to be talking about us." Harry Davies from De Beauvoir Deli acknowledged the humor in the videos but defended the deli's pricing, explaining that it reflects a commitment to sustainability, quality ingredients, and paying employees the London living wage. Davies noted the deli has always attracted a diverse clientele, countering assumptions that it caters exclusively to the wealthy.
Regarding the broader implications of gentrification, Coker expressed mixed feelings. While acknowledging potential benefits like "new ideas," he voiced concern that "people that made the community what it is aren’t necessarily able to participate in it" due to rising costs and changing landscapes.
