Tyler Andrews, a 36-year-old endurance athlete and aplastic anemia survivor, set a new speed record for ascending Mount Everest on May 27, reaching the summit in 9 hours and 55 minutes. This achievement surpassed the previous record set in 2003 by Nepali climber Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa by over an hour. Andrews completed the solo climb using supplementary oxygen, with his ascent verified by Fastest Known Time (FKT), the body that oversees mountain speed records, and currently undergoing confirmation by Nepal's Ministry of Tourism.

Andrews, who lives and trains in Quito, Ecuador, began his ascent with the Khumbu Icefall, widely considered the most dangerous section of the route due to its shifting glacier and precarious crevasses crossed via aluminum ladders. He climbed this technically challenging portion in darkness before reaching the Western Cwm, a high-altitude valley that offered an unusually quiet and solitary environment despite Everest's reputation for crowded conditions. He described the experience as especially poignant with a nearly full moon illuminating the towering surrounding peaks.

Throughout his climb, Andrews carried a photo of his late friend Greg Krupa, a fellow runner and mountain enthusiast who passed away in April. In Krupa’s honor, Andrews has raised more than $42,000 for the Chaski Foundation, which supports young athletes in Ecuador and Nepal — two countries integral to Andrews’ development as an athlete.

Andrews’ journey to this record was marked by persistence and multiple attempts over three seasons. Starting in spring 2025, he made seven attempts in total. Early efforts were hindered by equipment issues, severe wind conditions, and exhaustion at extreme altitudes. Two failed attempts occurred in the fall of 2025 due to unusually deep, chest-high snow. Despite perfect physical conditioning and careful preparation, Andrews acknowledged the mountain’s unpredictability, stating, “the mountain just says no.” His successful climb was the culmination of years of dedicated training and favorable conditions aligning.

A native of Concord, Andrews began his running career at Concord Academy and competed collegiately at Tufts University. He twice participated in the U.S. Olympic marathon trials in 2016 and 2020. During the COVID-19 pandemic, he shifted focus from road running to mountain sports, pursuing FKTs on peaks worldwide, including Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, and Manaslu, the world’s eighth-highest mountain. Andrews now holds 100 speed records across mountain and trail disciplines.

Reflecting on his motivation for Everest, Andrews said he was inspired by his prior success on Manaslu in 2024 and recognized the potential to significantly improve upon the longstanding Everest speed record. He views the mountains as an extension of his passion for running, combining self-sufficiency, endurance, and technical skill with the challenge and beauty of the natural world.

Andrews’ record-setting climb underscores not only physical endurance and technical expertise but also the importance of mental resilience and support from a dedicated team, including his partner, Anna, and others guiding him from home and Nepal.