The traditional Korean accessory known as the norigae is experiencing renewed international interest, propelled in part by its visibility in popular culture and adaptations by modern designers. Originating over 600 years ago as an ornamental pendant hanging from the waistband of the hanbok—Korea’s traditional dress—the norigae has historically symbolized social status and served as an amulet. Today, it is evolving beyond its historical roots into a versatile fashion accessory worn worldwide.

In recent years, the norigae has gained prominence through its appearances on K-pop stars such as BTS and Blackpink, who incorporate the ornament into their contemporary stage costumes and everyday wear. This trend has helped introduce the norigae to a global audience, with fashion enthusiasts attaching them not only to waistbands but also to handbags, hair clips, phone cases, and jewelry.

Retailers in Seoul, particularly in the cultural neighborhood of Insadong, have noted a surge in demand. Leesle, a boutique that offers both finished norigaes and DIY assembly kits, reported doubled interest following the release of the animated film “KPop Demon Hunters,” which Netflix identified as its most popular title. The shop’s program allows customers to customize their norigaes by selecting traditional elements and assembling them with the assistance of staff.

Traditional norigaes are composed of three parts: the maedeup, a knotted silk cord often shaped in symbolic designs such as butterflies for love; the paemul, a central charm typically fashioned from precious materials like jade, coral, or gold; and the sul, a silk tassel hanging below. While traditional versions use natural materials, many modern norigaes incorporate synthetic substitutes to meet varied aesthetic and price points.

Visitors from abroad engage with the craft for diverse reasons. Some are students studying East Asian culture, while others are cultural visitors seeking tangible connections to Korea. Personal heritage also plays a role; one participant creating a norigae was a Korean adoptee preparing to return to France with a piece of her birth culture.

Norigaes have also been gifted to international celebrities during high-profile events in Seoul. Choi Yoon Ha, a self-taught artisan known for her expertise in traditional Korean costume, designed custom norigaes for Meryl Streep and Anne Hathaway at the premiere of “The Devil Wears Prada.” These pieces combined traditional motifs with contemporary aesthetics, reflecting both historical symbolism and modern fashion sensibilities.

Contemporary jewelers like Oh Se Young and Um Do Yeon of Studio Ohuu are redefining the norigae for today’s market by streamlining traditional designs. They aim to respect the accessory’s symbolic qualities while adapting it for use as pendants or earrings, often omitting traditional knots but maintaining meaningful elements such as pearls or gemstones thought to ward off bad luck. The movement of the tassel, representing prosperity through the symbolism of flowing water, is another retained motif.

The studio, soon to be renamed By Mulde, emphasizes the concept of cultural diffusion, seeking to spread Korean jewelry’s heritage and reinterpretations globally. The norigae, with its blend of history, symbolism, and contemporary style, exemplifies this fusion as it continues to gain appeal far beyond its origins.