During a recent visit to Dublin coinciding with the Six Nations Rugby tournament, a notable culinary experience emerged amid the sporting atmosphere at Comet, a relatively new bistro operated by the team behind the acclaimed Bastible. The restaurant, which has received considerable attention following the Michelin Awards held in the city, offers a signature dish by chef Kevin O’Donnell that enhances the traditional use of cabbage—a vegetable often boiled extensively in Irish cuisine—through a method that preserves and elevates its natural sweetness.
O’Donnell’s technique involves briefly blanching savoy cabbage to maintain tenderness and flavor before finishing it on the grill to develop deeper, charred notes. This preparation has resonated well with diners, some of whom reportedly order the dish multiple times during a single visit. While the restaurant serves the cabbage cut into squares and skewered, home cooks are encouraged to work with cabbage quarters for easier handling.
The dish is complemented by a distinctive glaze made from umeboshi—a pickled Japanese plum—blended with water and honey to create a sweet, salty, and sour profile. A pistachio paste accompanies the cabbage, consisting of confit garlic, toasted pistachios, guindilla peppers and brine, parsley, lime juice, and olive oil, which together provide a creamy and flavorful contrast. The final presentation involves grilling the cabbage with a light olive oil brush, caramelizing the umboshi glaze, and serving atop a spread of the pistachio paste, garnished with chopped toasted pistachios, sea salt flakes, and black pepper.
O’Donnell suggests pairing the dish with either a light red or a full-bodied white wine. For those unable to find umeboshi, plum jam combined with salt and vinegar offers a suitable substitute. Additionally, the leftover glaze has potential uses as a flavorful topping for pork and chicken dishes.
Comet’s approach reflects a broader trend in Irish gastronomy to revisit and refine traditional ingredients with modern techniques, showcasing cabbage in a role beyond its conventional boiled form. The dish appeals both as a hearty starter and as a side suitable for pairing with robust meats such as beef, pork, or lamb.