Animal rights activists have intensified calls for the fashion industry to reconsider its reliance on wool amid new protests during major fashion weeks. The demonstrations come as the sector increasingly distances itself from real fur, sparking debate over wool’s ethical and environmental implications.
Earlier this week, protesters from the organization Peta disrupted the Cos fashion show at New York Fashion Week, carrying signs that accused the wool industry of cruelty, with slogans such as “Sheep beaten and bloodied for wool. Don’t buy it.” The protest escalated when Steven Kolb, president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), was recorded physically restraining one of the activists. Kolb subsequently was placed on leave and issued a public apology, acknowledging his actions were inappropriate. Peta has announced plans to engage with Kolb to discuss phasing out wool and animal-derived materials in fashion.
Following the New York event, Peta staged a similar demonstration at the H&M show during London Fashion Week, displaying placards demanding that the brand stop using wool. Security personnel promptly escorted protesters off the catwalk. A spokesperson for H&M acknowledged the importance of animal welfare and stated the company adheres to stringent third-party standards when sourcing animal fibres, pointing to certifications designed to ensure ethical treatment.
The spotlight on wool reflects broader scrutiny of animal-derived materials in apparel, particularly after the industry’s move away from fur. Activists contend that wool production entails widespread animal welfare problems. Peta argues that modern sheep have been selectively bred over millennia to produce excessive amounts of wool, preventing them from naturally shedding their fleece. This leads to discomfort and health issues without human intervention.
Common practices such as tail docking and castration remain prevalent, while in Australia—one of the world’s largest wool producers—the controversial procedure of mulesing continues legally. Mulesing involves removing skin from the sheep’s hindquarters without anesthesia to prevent flystrike, a parasitic condition exacerbated by dense wool and skin folds. Critics attribute this vulnerability to breeding strategies aimed at maximizing fleece yield.
Recent Peta investigations have focused on suppliers connected to H&M Group, which owns Cos, citing footage from a South African wool farm showing workers mistreating animals during shearing, including kicking and rough handling. H&M Group has responded by affirming that all virgin wool in its products is sourced from farms certified under the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), a third-party scheme designed to promote animal welfare. After the allegations surfaced, the relevant farm reportedly had its licenses suspended pending further review.
Beyond animal welfare concerns, environmental issues also arise in discussions about wool. The industry’s carbon footprint includes significant methane emissions from sheep, and there are worries about land degradation from intensive farming practices. Nonetheless, some experts note that wool’s durability may offer sustainability advantages over synthetic fibers, complicating the discourse.
As the fashion world grapples with these ethical and ecological questions, the debate over wool’s place in future collections is set to continue, with industry leaders, activists, and consumers weighing the complex balance between animal welfare, environmental impact, and product performance.