Mezcal, a traditional Mexican spirit distilled from roasted agave hearts, has seen a significant rise in popularity in recent years, both in Mexico and abroad. Known for its diverse and complex flavor profiles, mezcal production and consumption have sparked interest from enthusiasts and industry professionals, while also presenting challenges related to sustainability and pricing.

Originating from regions such as Oaxaca, often regarded as the heartland of mezcal, the spirit has expanded its presence internationally. In London, a notable development is Sorbito, a tasting room and shop located in the northeast part of the city. Founded by Jon Darby, who first encountered mezcal on a trip to Mexico a decade ago, Sorbito offers an innovative self-service tasting experience. Customers use prepaid cards to sample from dispensing machines that feature a variety of mezcal taps, providing an accessible way to explore the spirit’s range of flavors. This presence has contributed to the nickname “Mezcal Mile” for the street, which hosts several establishments specializing in mezcal, such as Cinco, Hacha, and Doña. Other UK cities, including Brighton and Nottingham, also boast prominent mezcal selections thanks to venues like the Golden Pineapple and 400 Rabbits.

Production volumes have grown markedly, with Mexican mezcal output increasing from approximately 1 million liters in 2012 to 14 million liters in 2022. According to Darby, the majority of mezcal on the market tends to be commercially produced and often mixed into cocktails, while smaller batch, artisanal mezcals—typically made in remote communities—receive less recognition. These artisanal varieties are best enjoyed neat to fully appreciate their intricate flavors, which can range broadly from sweet and floral notes to unexpectedly savory or earthy tones. Jennifer Aspell of 400 Rabbits and online retailer Casa Agave emphasizes the role of terroir in mezcal flavor, drawing a parallel between agave and grape cultivation.

The spirit’s price is a notable barrier for many consumers. Small-batch mezcals from Darby’s Sin Gusano label can retail for around £80 per 500 ml bottle. The high cost reflects the labor-intensive production process: agave plants take up to 35 years to mature, and harvesting is done entirely by hand. After harvesting, the agave hearts, or piñas, are slow-roasted in earthen pits before being crushed for fermentation. Darby suggests mezcal remains undervalued given the effort involved and notes that more producers are now advocating for fair compensation.

Environmental concerns are increasingly pressing. The demand surge has led to depletion of wild agave stocks, deforestation for monoculture cultivation of faster-growing varietals, and considerable resource use including water and firewood. Last year, Mexican mezcal production declined nearly 40%, influenced by reduced orders, market oversupply, and broader economic pressures affecting alcohol consumption. While this downturn may alleviate some environmental stress, it poses difficulties for producers who face long growth cycles and delayed returns on their crops.

In response to these challenges, industry voices advocate for more responsible consumption practices and support for sustainably produced mezcal. Sorbito’s model, allowing patrons to sample small measures starting from 10 ml, encourages appreciation of mezcal’s complexity without excess. Although individual servings may seem modest, their price is competitive compared to other premium spirits. Such approaches aim to balance consumer interest with environmental and economic realities, fostering a more sustainable future for mezcal production and enjoyment.