Heirloom apple varieties with origins dating back centuries are experiencing a resurgence in interest across the United States, drawing attention from historians, culinary enthusiasts, and orchardists. These antique apples, often characterized by irregular shapes, russeted skins, and complex flavor profiles, offer a contrast to the limited selection commonly found in supermarkets, where just five commercial varieties dominate production.

At the dawn of the 20th century, the U.S. Department of Agriculture documented approximately 14,000 apple varieties cultivated in the country. Today, according to industry group USApple, the market is largely concentrated around Gala, Red Delicious, Honeycrisp, Granny Smith, and Fuji apples, accounting for over 60 percent of production. Additionally, certain newer branded varieties such as Cosmic Crisp and Pink Lady are patented and trademarked, which restricts access for many small growers.

In contrast, heirloom apples remain freely propagated, a factor that has facilitated their preservation and revival. For more than five decades, experts including Tom Burford of Virginia, John Bunker in Maine, and David Benscoter in Washington State have researched historical documents, vintage nursery catalogs, aerial photography, and abandoned orchards to identify and safeguard these apple cultivars from extinction.

One such effort is Hidden Gem Orchard in Southbury, Connecticut, founded in 2017 by James Wargo. After opening its first pick-your-own season in 2023, the seven-acre orchard offers varieties such as Ashmead’s Kernel, an 18th-century English apple known for its firm texture and fizzy flavor, and Ribston Pippin, a fruit featured in Charles Dickens’ work and associated with Victorian desserts. Wargo plans to expand his inventory next year to include varieties like Kandil Sinap, originally from near the Black Sea around 1800, and Black Oxford, an 18th-century Maine variety noted for its dark purple skin and storage qualities. Customer demand for these heirlooms has grown, with Wargo reporting that opening weekend sales doubled compared to the previous year.

Similarly, Weston’s Antique Apples in southeastern Wisconsin continues a family legacy begun nearly a century ago. Under the stewardship of fourth-generation growers Genevieve and Bill Weston, the farm specializes in antique apples believed to possess richer flavors and aromas than many modern hybrids. Their offerings, sold at farmers’ markets around Milwaukee each fall, include as many as 75 varieties by October, ranging from the early-harvest Court Pendu Plat, documented in 1613, to the late-season Calville Blanc d’Hiver, used in classic French tarts. To assist buyers, the Westons categorize apples by taste profile—such as sweet or tart for eating or baking—and provide samples, revealing the wide range of flavors even within these groups.

Despite their taste appeal, heirloom apples sometimes face challenges in consumer acceptance due to their irregular appearances, which can be misconstrued as defects. Erin Robinson, orchard manager at Scott Farm Orchard near Brattleboro, Vermont, which cultivates over 130 heirloom varieties, notes that skin textures and coloration often differ significantly from the glossy, uniform apples typically sold in stores. Robinson highlights the Knobbed Russet—a rare British variety known for its banana bread-like flavor but unconventional look—as an example. Events such as Heirloom Apple Day at Scott Farm offer tastings and expert talks intended to educate and broaden appreciation for these unique fruits.

For many involved in preserving heirloom apples, the cultivation of these varieties is both a personal and historical endeavor. As Robinson observes, the survival of apple types dating back to the 1500s owes much to the dedication of individuals committed to propagating them. This ongoing stewardship allows consumers to connect tangibly with history through a piece of fruit, widening the palate beyond commonplace supermarket options.