In the valleys of southwestern China, the arrival of summer in Sichuan province is closely tied to the annual plum harvest, a seasonal event marked by the traditional solar term mang zhong, or Grain in Ear. This period signals the ripening of crops and the onset of midsummer across the region, particularly in Dayi county, a prominent plum-producing area on the Chengdu Plain.

Dayi’s unique natural environment, benefiting from meltwater from Xiling Snow Mountain and significant temperature variations between day and night, creates optimal conditions for plums known for their thick flesh, rich aroma, and distinct acidity. As temperatures rise and humidity sets in, the fruit shifts from sharply tart to plump and sweet with a faint blush, prompting farmers to begin harvesting.

For local cultivators like 79-year-old Wang Xiuhua, the fruit’s journey from blossom to harvest demands year-round care. The plum blossoms emerge during the cold twelfth lunar month, with early spring frost presenting the greatest threat to fruit development. Throughout the growing season, tasks such as pruning and organic fertilization are critical to ensuring a healthy yield. Harvest time arrives swiftly once the plums turn golden, necessitating prompt picking to preserve quality. Wang favors Dayi’s traditional local plum varieties for home brewing, appreciating their balanced acidity and flavor.

The plum harvest fuels longstanding traditions in both household preservation and commercial winemaking. At home, sugar-cured plums are made by air-drying freshly picked fruit before layering them with white sugar in jars. Over time, the plums exude syrup and concentrate flavor, providing a naturally refreshing drink on hot days when mixed with water.

Commercially, Dayi’s plum wine industry relies on traditional fermentation methods rather than the simpler process of steeping fruit in spirits. Hu Yao, founder of Chengdu Dahe Hongmei Wine Co, highlights the Nanko plum variety, prized for its small pit, thick flesh, and intense aroma that contribute to the wine’s strong fruity character. The winemaking process involves careful handpicking and quick transport to processing facilities to maintain freshness. Pure fruit fermentation, a method that requires precise temperature and timing controls to avoid spoilage, is employed extensively despite its challenges. The wine undergoes at least two years of fermentation and aging, resulting in a smooth, balanced beverage that combines sweetness and acidity, often enhanced by spring water sourced from the nearby mountains.

While the plum itself remains largely unchanged, evolving consumer preferences have influenced the development of new products. Younger drinkers have shown interest in lighter, fruit-forward beverages, prompting innovations such as jasmine- and chrysanthemum-infused plum wines, sparkling plum drinks, and tea-based plum beverages. This shift has transformed the seasonal fruit from a primarily agricultural product into a component of contemporary urban lifestyles.

As July unfolds across Sichuan and the harvest season concludes, the work continues behind the scenes in kitchens and wineries. When the summer heat returns the following year, the flavors of Dayi’s plums will reemerge in chilled drinks, symbolizing a tradition that has woven itself into the rhythm of local life for generations.