Photographs and personal diaries belonging to Dr. Arthur Wakefield, the physician on Britain’s inaugural 1922 expedition to climb Mount Everest, have been sold for nearly £35,000 after an intense bidding competition involving British and American collectors.
Dr. Wakefield was part of a historic but ill-fated team led by George Mallory, who attempted to reach the summit of Everest during the 1922 campaign. The expedition ended without success and was marred by tragedy when an avalanche resulted in the deaths of seven Sherpa climbers. Mallory later returned for a second attempt in 1924 but perished during the climb at the age of 38.
Wakefield’s diaries offer a vivid, firsthand account of the avalanche disaster. In his journal, he recounts that at 2:15 p.m. he observed the North Face of Everest near the climbers suddenly covered in snow, signaling the avalanche. Recognizing the severity of the situation, Wakefield quickly organized a rescue effort with porters equipped with shovels, ropes, and first aid supplies, setting off at 2:30 p.m. He encountered fellow team member Colin Crawford descending the mountain, exhausted, at around 3:30 p.m.
The doctor’s observations also detailed the challenging terrain the team faced, describing the climb as “one mass of, apparently, loose boulders,” which underscored the dangers inherent to the expedition.
The sale highlights the ongoing fascination with early Everest expeditions, which are regarded both as significant milestones in mountaineering history and as sobering reminders of the extreme risks faced by climbers and Sherpa support staff. Wakefield’s materials, capturing the perils and resolve of that period, provide valuable insights into the logistics, hazards, and human experiences of high-altitude exploration nearly a century ago.
