Bhavitha Mandava, a 26-year-old model from Hyderabad, has gained international recognition after becoming the first Indian to open Chanel’s Métiers d’art show in December last year. Walking through a New York subway station wearing jeans and a beige sweater, her unconventional rise in the fashion industry has made her a prominent figure globally.

Recently, Mandava was among nine women featured in the 2027 Pirelli calendar, widely known as “The Cal,” an annual publication by the Italian tyre company that historically included figures such as Kate Moss and Sophia Loren. The calendar’s photography, conducted entirely in India, also highlighted other notable Indian personalities like actress Freida Pinto and musician Anoushka Shankar. Launching the calendar at Delhi’s Imperial Hotel, Mandava expressed pride in working in her home country, despite having built most of her career in fashion capitals like New York, Milan, and Paris.

Mandava’s ascent has sparked conversations around beauty ideals in India, where colorism remains pervasive. She has spoken candidly about the challenges of being seen as an unconventional beauty in a culture that often prizes lighter skin tones and fuller figures, especially within Bollywood. The preference for fair complexions is rooted in historical caste associations and was further entrenched during British colonial rule. Skin whitening products continue to enjoy widespread popularity, and casting calls in Indian cinema tend to favor fair-skinned actors, linking lighter complexions with higher social status, while darker skin tones are often associated with manual labor.

Personally, Mandava has faced bullying during her school years for her height, slim frame, and wearing glasses—features she now considers assets in her modeling career. Educated at Jawaharlal Nehru Technological University in Hyderabad with a bachelor’s degree in architecture, she was discovered on a New York subway platform while completing her master’s degree at New York University. Since her discovery, Mandava has graced the cover of British Vogue solo, debuted at the Met Gala, and become Chanel’s first Indian house ambassador.

Her journey is both celebrated and viewed as exceptional. Although India has long served as inspiration for Western fashion and a source of labor, it has only recently gained recognition as a fashion powerhouse, with designers like Rahul Mishra rising alongside Mandava. Despite her success, she notes that many peers from India struggle to secure work abroad and often return home burdened by debt. Holding an F-1 student visa in the U.S., Mandava faced legal employment restrictions, which she navigated by traveling to Europe on weekends to participate in fashion shows.

Mandava has expressed caution against portraying her story as a typical example of the “American dream,” emphasizing the realities and difficulties that many aspiring models encounter. Her narrative challenges prevailing cultural beauty norms while highlighting ongoing social and economic barriers within the fashion industry both in India and internationally.