Chanel has expanded its luxury portfolio by acquiring Charvet, a historic Parisian maison renowned for its bespoke shirts, ties, and pajamas. The acquisition was announced on Thursday, though financial terms of the deal were not disclosed.

Charvet, founded in 1838 by Joseph-Christophe Charvet—whose family ties include dressing Napoleon—is recognized as the world’s first dedicated shirtmaker. The brand has maintained a prestigious clientele over the centuries, including figures such as King Edward VII, who granted Charvet a royal warrant, and cultural icons like Gary Cooper, John F. Kennedy, Charles de Gaulle, and Karl Lagerfeld. The maison has been celebrated in literature as well, appearing in works by Marcel Proust and Tom Wolfe.

Currently helmed by siblings Jean-Claude and Anne-Marie Collban, whose family acquired the business in 1965, Charvet operates a single boutique at Place Vendôme and an atelier outside Paris. The brand generates estimated revenues between 10 million and 15 million euros annually and employs approximately 100 people. Industry analysts have valued Charvet at roughly 100 million euros ($114 million).

The acquisition is part of Chanel’s strategy to broaden its appeal across genders, despite not having a dedicated menswear line. Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president of fashion, emphasized the increasing fluidity of customer preferences, noting that Charvet’s clientele includes both men and women. He framed the deal as an opportunity to offer “a name for men” alongside Chanel’s traditionally female-focused brand.

Chanel’s interest in Charvet deepened when Matthieu Blazy was appointed artistic director in December 2024. Blazy’s debut collection featured a collaboration with Charvet on a trio of bespoke shirts inspired by Coco Chanel’s own style. This partnership helped raise Charvet’s profile among a new generation of luxury consumers, with high-profile figures such as Nicole Kidman and Jacob Elordi seen wearing the brand’s shirts.

The Collbins approached Chanel about the sale, motivated by concerns about Charvet’s future given that none of their children are involved in the business. Chanel has already acquired the Place Vendôme building housing the boutique, ensuring it remains an integral part of the brand’s legacy.

While Charvet will continue to operate as an independent company within the Chanel group—similar to other Chanel-owned brands like Erès and Orelbar Brown—the Collbins are expected to remain involved during the transition. Although a dedicated creative director for Charvet is anticipated in the future, Pavlovsky ruled out the possibility of Charvet launching runway shows.

With Chanel’s 2025 revenues reported at $19.3 billion and an operating profit of $4.7 billion, the luxury group’s investment in Charvet underscores its commitment to reinforcing artisanal craftsmanship and diversifying its brand offerings in a shifting market landscape.