A recent blind tasting event held during the London Wine Fair brought together a panel of 18 wine experts—including 11 Masters of Wine and one Master Sommelier—to evaluate 27 top Chardonnay wines from countries spanning Japan, Italy, Germany, South Africa, Chile, Australia, New Zealand, the United States, and Europe. The tasting, organized and overseen by Master Sommelier Ronan Sayburn and Master of Wine Sarah Abbott, was conducted without revealing the identities of the wines to the participants in order to assess quality without bias.

The event was part of an ongoing series initiated by Hannah Tovey, director and owner of the London Wine Fair, aimed at delivering focused and educational comparative tastings. Previous editions included “The Judgment of London,” where European and non-European wines were paired, and a “Battle of the Bubbles” tasting comparing champagnes with other sparkling wines.

This year’s Chardonnay tasting highlighted considerable variation in quality, with scores ranging from 15.5 to 17.5 out of 20, reflecting a broader spread than in prior tastings. Notably, the results underscored that price does not always correlate directly with quality. Some of the highest-scoring wines were among the least expensive, such as the Sieur d’Arques Toques et Clochers Haute Vallée Chardonnay 2024 from Limoux and an Uruguayan Chardonnay, both recommended by the panel. Conversely, some prestigious and costly white Burgundies received mixed reception. While the £700-per-bottle Henri Boillot 2022 Bâtard-Montrachet was praised for its richness, other expensive examples—such as the youthful Coche-Dury 2020 Bourgogne Blanc and the Raveneau Premier Cru Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 2021—were noted for their austere and tight character, possibly a reflection of their age.

Australian Chardonnays demonstrated a distinct style, seemingly moving away from the heavily oaked, high-alcohol profile that previously typified the region. Among these, the Tasmanian Tolpuddle Chardonnay 2023 emerged as the group favorite overall. It displayed a pronounced struck-match aroma, characteristic of reductive winemaking, a technique championed by Tolpuddle’s co-owner, Master of Wine Michael Hill Smith. This style drew comparisons to traditional Burgundian producers like Coche-Dury, although the latter’s current winemaking approach reportedly features less reduction. Another Australian wine from Hill Smith, the Shaw + Smith M3 2021, was admired for a slightly more approachable style.

The New Zealand wines garnered high marks from some tasters, particularly Bell Hill’s Limeworks Chardonnay 2020 from North Canterbury and Felton Road’s Bannockburn Chardonnay 2021 from Central Otago, both positioned at the premium end of the spectrum. Meanwhile, the two California Chardonnays—Kistler Les Noisetiers 2022 Sonoma Coast and Peter Michael Belle Côte 2021 Sonoma—were noted as refined but distinct from the inexpensive "popcorn"-style wines once associated with the region.

In a surprise outcome, the Danbury Ridge Octagon Block 2023 from Essex received strong support as one of the top scorers, with its cool-climate profile leading some tasters to question whether it was a Chablis. Western Australia’s Vasse Felix Heytesbury 2020 also ranked highly among the group.

While the collective panel acknowledged the Australians as overall winners of the tasting, individual preferences highlighted New Zealand and an exceptional white Burgundy as personal favorites. Detailed tasting notes, scores, and drink recommendations are available on the organizer’s website, with international stockists listed on wine-searcher.com.