A new study has highlighted health and safety concerns for kitchen workers in restaurants using gas-powered appliances across the United States. The research, published this week in Environmental Research Letters, examined pollution levels and temperatures in commercial kitchens, focusing on the exposure risks faced by the estimated 15 million Americans working in these environments, most of which utilize gas stoves.
Led by Yannai Kashtan, an air quality scientist at PSE Healthy Energy, the study was a collaborative effort involving PSE, Stanford University’s Doerr School of Sustainability, and New York University’s Grossman School of Medicine. The research team analyzed 27 commercial kitchens across three states, varying in size, cuisine, ventilation systems, and service intensity. They measured pollutants including nitrogen dioxide, methane, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, benzene, and temperature in multiple zones within each kitchen.
The findings revealed that kitchens using gas or propane appliances frequently exceeded the Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) outdoor air quality standard for nitrogen dioxide during working hours, with roughly 70% surpassing the one-hour exposure limit. Temperatures in these kitchens also often rose above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, with some locations reaching beyond 122 degrees. Although ventilation hoods are designed to reduce exposure to heat and emissions, workers directly facing gas cooking surfaces were found to experience significant pollutant levels.
The study also uncovered that gas stove pilot lights contribute to pollution even outside of operating hours, with elevated emissions during nighttime and early morning when ventilation systems are typically off. Kashtan emphasized the importance of activating ventilation systems before starting kitchen operations to mitigate pollutant buildup. However, he emphasized that eliminating the pollution source—gas appliances—would be the most effective solution.
Chef Christopher Galarza, who collaborated with the researchers to facilitate access to commercial kitchens, described one incident where benzene levels spiked to concentrations comparable to heavy secondhand cigarette smoke exposure in a short time frame. He underscored the gravity of the exposure for kitchen workers, who may be subject to such conditions daily, contrasting with residential exposure which is typically less frequent.
The study also included a comparison with three fully electric kitchens, which consistently exhibited lower temperatures and pollutant concentrations, with no surpassing of EPA guidelines. One such kitchen is operated by Claude Le Tohic, chef and owner of ONE65 in San Francisco. Le Tohic primarily uses electric appliances and reported satisfaction with the cleaner air and more comfortable conditions these alternatives provide. While his kitchen still employs some gas burners and charcoal ovens for specific cooking methods, he views the findings as confirmation of the benefits of electric equipment.
New York University researcher George Thurston, not involved in the study, noted the need for updated air quality standards that better reflect the workplace environment and longer exposure periods, rather than relying solely on outdoor, short-term limits. Thurston advocates for the transition to induction stoves to reduce exposure risks, citing personal use of electric appliances to protect his own family’s health.
Despite the higher initial cost of electric appliances compared to gas, the study suggests that moving toward electric kitchens could offer safer conditions for workers and environmental advantages. Both Kashtan and industry figures like Galarza and Le Tohic called for stronger regulations on gas appliance use in commercial kitchens to address ongoing pollution and health risks.
Galarza highlighted the cultural significance of kitchens and dining spaces, advocating that these environments should be safe and inclusive rather than sources of harm. The study adds a new dimension to ongoing conversations about occupational safety in the food service industry, emphasizing the need for reforms to protect millions of kitchen workers nationwide.