Chinese researchers have developed a novel textile made from a fungus that is capable of self-repair and self-cleaning, according to a study published on Friday. The fabric, created from Cordyceps militaris—a fungus commonly used in traditional Chinese medicine—can also be customized to incorporate features such as coloration and ultraviolet protection through the addition of other microorganisms.

The research, led by the Shenzhen Institutes of Advanced Technology, addresses a key challenge in the field of engineered living materials (ELMs): scaling up microscopic living cells into larger, durable structures that retain their biological functions. The team leveraged the natural structure of Cordyceps militaris, which forms interconnected networks of microscopic fibers called hyphae, to produce flexible sheets of living material.

To create the fabric, the researchers cultivated the fungus into small pellets, assembled these into continuous sheets, and added glycerol to enhance flexibility. The resulting material is capable of responding to environmental damage: when fresh fungal pellets are applied to damaged areas, the textile grows new fibers to repair itself. The fibers are naturally waterproof, minimizing the need for synthetic coatings.

Environmental sustainability is a key focus of the work. Testing showed that the fabric biodegrades completely in 41 days, suggesting potential applications in circular fashion—clothing designed for reuse or recycling. While the team produced a dress to demonstrate the fabric’s potential as wearable material, they emphasized broader possibilities. “The broader concept could extend beyond clothing wherever a biodegradable structure with locally programmable biological functions is useful,” said Li Ke, the study’s first author.

Despite its promising qualities, the technology remains at the research-prototype stage and is not yet suitable as a direct substitute for conventional textiles like cotton or polyester. The researchers envision its use primarily in short-term applications such as temporary fashion, exhibition displays, art installations, and biodegradable packaging.

For commercial viability, the team identified several hurdles including reducing production costs, improving fermentation and filtration efficiency, and ensuring consistent quality. Further testing is also required to assess practical properties such as washability and breathability.

The development marks a significant step in exploring living textiles that combine biodegradable materials with adaptive, programmable biological functions, potentially opening new avenues for sustainable products in fashion and beyond.