On the streets of Colima city, the Bejarano family continues a local tradition by selling tuba, a fermented coconut sap drink that has recently seen a resurgence in popularity throughout Mexico’s smallest state. The beverage, made from the sap of the coconut palm tree, is often served as tuba compuesta—mixed with red berries, diced apple, ice, and peanuts—offering a refreshing contrast to the region’s humid Pacific coastal climate.

Tuba’s origins trace back to 1565, linked to the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade that connected Mexico and the Philippines for roughly 250 years. This maritime route introduced the coconut palm to Mexico, alongside a variety of other goods and cultural influences, shaping local culinary traditions in states such as Colima. The beverage itself is produced by climbing coconut palms, extracting sap from the base of palm fronds, and allowing it to ferment into a slightly viscous, tangy liquid that can develop mild alcohol content over time.

In recent years, tuba has experienced a culinary revival within Colima, appearing both at street vendors and modern restaurants where mixologists incorporate it into cocktails alongside mezcal or tequila. Despite its deep cultural significance, awareness of tuba remains limited beyond regional circles.

Colima, home to approximately 731,000 residents, is often overshadowed by larger Mexican states. It is marked by geographic and social contrasts—boasting diverse landscapes shaped by volcanic minerals and a coastal gateway through the port of Manzanillo, while also contending with one of Mexico’s highest homicide rates relative to its small population. Analysts attribute the state’s security situation to its position between the violence-afflicted neighboring states of Jalisco and Michoacán, although day-to-day life appears relatively stable and less militarized compared to its neighbors.

The state’s growing food scene extends beyond tuba, embracing traditional dishes like pozole seco, a dry variation of the classic Mexican stew, and the rise of local craft breweries gaining national recognition. Chef Nico Mejía describes Colima’s cuisine as "honest," shaped by the region’s unique environmental conditions including its volcano-enriched soil and mix of sea and rainforest resources.

Tuba also connects Colima to a broader historical and cultural narrative rooted in the colonial era. Scholars highlight how the galleon trade facilitated exchanges not only of goods but also of technology and knowledge, including Filipino distillation techniques that later influenced local spirit production. In fact, tuba serves as the basis for “vino de cocos,” a distilled alcoholic drink akin to the Filipino lambanog. After being banned during colonial times and presumed lost, efforts to revive the production of vino de cocos are underway in Colima. Jorge Velazco Rocha, a local entrepreneur, claims to have reintroduced this traditional palm liquor after centuries of dormancy, although external verification remains limited.

Beyond Mexico, tuba has also found a foothold within Mexican diaspora communities in the United States. In Los Angeles, for example, Raspados Nayarit—a modest juice and snack shop in Lincoln Heights—serves frozen-imported tuba primarily to Colima natives seeking a connection to home. The owners emphasize that the drink’s quality varies significantly depending on the vendor, underscoring tuba’s artisanal nature.

This small but culturally resonant beverage encapsulates the intertwining histories of Mexico and the Philippines, colonial legacies, and evolving food traditions. It also illustrates the complexities of Colima itself—a state rich in natural resources and culinary heritage, yet often overlooked on both national and international stages. As tuba continues to gain attention, it reflects not only a revival of traditional production but also a broader appreciation of the unique regional identity that Colima fosters.