Mooncakes, a central element of the Mid-Autumn Festival, have a rich history that dates back centuries, with their earliest recorded mention appearing during the Song dynasty (960-1279) in Wu Zimu’s Dreaming of Grain. Originally, mooncakes were simple, round pastries with a thin crust and fillings such as lotus seed paste or the traditional five-kernel mix.
During the Yuan dynasty (1279-1368), mooncakes took on a historically significant role when Zhu Yuanzhang, later the founding emperor of the Ming dynasty, and his adviser Liu Bowen reputedly used them to convey secret messages that helped coordinate a revolt against Mongol rule. Over subsequent dynasties, including the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911), mooncakes evolved not only in taste but in artistry, as intricate designs featuring auspicious symbols, flowers, birds, and deities were carved into wooden moulds used to shape the pastries.
These wooden moulds, traditionally made from dense pear or jujube wood, allowed artisans to create detailed patterns and remain valued cultural artifacts today. Some designs, such as those depicting the Eight Immortals or the three stellar gods known as Fu Lu Shou, are less common in contemporary mooncakes. The craft of making wooden mooncake moulds is complex, involving over a dozen steps—from pattern drafting and crack removal to planing and drilling—followed by air-drying for at least two years. This traditional craft was recognized as an intangible cultural heritage of Guangdong province in 2018.
In Hong Kong, mooncakes have long been associated with high-value gifting rather than casual snacking. Historically, consumers would participate in “mooncake clubs,” paying installments for festive gift sets. The importance of design and packaging has grown, with bakeries using these elements to express their identity. Notably, many upscale Chinese banquet restaurants gained reputations partly through their mooncakes, such as the now-closed Tak Yu Restaurant in Yau Ma Tei, which operated from the 1920s until 2012.
A selection of Tak Yu’s original mooncake menus, gift boxes, and wooden moulds are currently exhibited at Artellex Galerie in Cheung Sha Wan as part of a food-themed retrospective. These items, acquired from the restaurant’s closure by a private collector, underscore the enduring cultural significance of mooncake-making traditions. Alongside moulds for mooncakes, the exhibit features whimsical biscuit moulds used for playful “piglet” and “Buddha” cakes—typically complimentary items fashioned from leftover dough, reflecting a zero-waste approach to baking.
Despite the tradition’s longevity, the number of craftsmen producing handmade wooden moulds has declined, as factory production and plastic moulds have become more prevalent. However, mooncake purists argue that wooden moulds yield superior results. Lo Kin-ming, head dim sum chef at Lung King Heen, the Michelin three-star restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, points out that wooden moulds create smoother, more rounded pattern lines, while plastic moulds often produce sharper lines and a tendency for mooncakes to crack at the edges.
Lo also highlights the functionality of wooden moulds’ dual air vents, which prevent trapped air from distorting the shape when dough is pressed. Traditional moulds require a firm knock to release the pastry, a technique learned through extensive practice. Designs that maintain simplicity, such as the classic full moon and blooming flowers motif, are preferred over overly complex patterns that risk ruining the mooncake’s appearance.
Lung King Heen’s mooncakes incorporate intricate designs featuring the restaurant’s name in traditional Chinese script, crafted using custom moulds from Man Kee Chopping Board—a longtime Hong Kong family business specializing in mooncake moulds, including custom work and modern-themed patterns.
While newer technologies like 3D printing facilitate quick production and design versatility, many bakers and culinary experts maintain that traditional wooden moulds remain integral to preserving the cultural and aesthetic qualities of this seasonal delicacy.