Havana is grappling with an unprecedented crisis marked by severe shortages and infrastructure failures, underscoring the deepening challenges faced by the Cuban population. The situation reflects decades of economic mismanagement compounded by recent disruptions, including a sharp decline in tourism and the impact of a new U.S. oil blockade imposed earlier this year.
During a recent visit in September, observers noted striking evidence of hardship throughout Old Havana. Darkened streets stretched beneath crumbling colonial architecture, while garbage piled along multiple city blocks and residents queued for scarce supplies like drinking water. Rolling blackouts limit electricity availability to only a few hours per day in many areas, further complicating daily life.
Food and medical supplies are in short supply, prompting a reliance on informal networks and the creativity of residents struggling to subsist. Encounters with locals often involved unsolicited offers of assistance, including guide services or companionship, frequently followed by modest requests for financial help. These exchanges illustrate a population adapting to crisis through resourcefulness and informal commerce, despite the difficult circumstances.
Many Cubans have turned to private enterprises such as “casas particulares” — private guesthouses — as a primary means of income, replacing state employment that can no longer sustain a living wage. One Airbnb host, formerly an air traffic controller, spoke of his transition to this work as his sole livelihood. His attentiveness to guests contrasted with the visible neglect of the urban environment elsewhere in the city.
Political sentiments remain tense and subdued. A billboard affirming “Raúl es Raúl,” referring to former Cuban president Raúl Castro, reflected the persistence of established authority. Discussions of press freedom encountered caution, with local residents notably reluctant to speak openly about political conditions in the presence of apparent security personnel. A near absence of fundamental freedoms was acknowledged quietly by some, underscoring the tight controls governing public discourse.
Despite the hardships, Havana retains vibrant social rhythms. Musicians and performers enliven the streets, children play unofficial sports matches, and neighbors gather on stoops during nightfall to escape heat and power outages. The city’s famed seawall, the Malecón, serves as a communal space even amid frequent blackouts and discomfort.
Security concerns were evident: one foreign visitor recounted an incident where a local man, carrying a makeshift weapon, offered to escort them for protection late at night and later demanded payment for the unsolicited service. After contacting police, the visitors noted limited law enforcement capacity to address such situations without concrete identifying information.
U.S. Secretary of State Marco Rubio recently described Cuba as a “failed state,” citing the country’s inability to maintain basic services or adequately support workers. While the Cuban government clearly faces acute systemic challenges, the resilience of ordinary citizens remains palpable. Many locals express a desire to leave the country or have already emigrated, yet those who remain continue to find ways to endure hardship daily.
As the crisis deepens, the survival strategies of Havana’s residents continue to play out in the city’s streets — a combination of cautious engagement, communal support, and quiet defiance amid uncertainty.