David George Gordon, a science writer and advocate for entomophagy, the practice of eating insects, died on August 4 in Tacoma, Washington. He was 76. According to his daughter, Julia Mullen Gordon, his death followed complications from a fall.
Mr. Gordon gained recognition as the “bug chef” for his efforts to promote insects as a sustainable and nutritious protein source. He was the author of “The Eat-a-Bug Cookbook,” published in 1998, which offered recipes ranging from deep-fried tarantulas to sautéed crickets. Throughout his career, he made numerous television appearances demonstrating insect-based cooking, notably on late-night shows such as “Late Night With Conan O’Brien” and talk programs including “The View” and “The Late Late Show With James Corden.”
Born in Chicago on April 15, 1950, Gordon’s early fascination with the natural world was nurtured by his father’s aquariums. He briefly attended the University of Wisconsin-Madison before returning to Chicago to pursue biology at Northeastern Illinois University. After graduation in 1980, he relocated to the Seattle area, where he worked at the Point Defiance Zoo and Aquarium before turning to science writing.
His interest in edible insects was sparked during research for his 1996 book “The Compleat Cockroach,” which examined the biology and cultural history of cockroaches. In the book, he highlighted historic accounts describing cockroaches as a food source, noting that their taste had been compared to shrimp. This discovery led him to explore the broader culinary traditions involving insects in various cultures across Africa, Asia, and Latin America, where billions of people regularly consume bugs.
Despite encountering cultural resistance in the United States, where insect consumption is uncommon and often met with skepticism, Gordon advocated for a shift in perception. He emphasized the ecological and nutritional benefits of insects, noting their abundance and low environmental impact compared to conventional livestock. In interviews, he expressed that Western attitudes toward taste were narrowly defined and that eating insects was a practice long normalized elsewhere.
Gordon sourced insects from specialized suppliers, ensuring humane methods for their dispatch, often by freezing. His cookbook featured diverse recipes such as curried termite stew, larval latkes, and fried green tomato hornworms, though he acknowledged the challenge of overcoming ingrained aversions.
While “The Eat-a-Bug Cookbook” did not achieve commercial bestseller status, Gordon’s work resonated with entomologists and sustainable food advocates. Zack Lemann, an entomologist and insect keeper who collaborated with Gordon, said he viewed Gordon as optimistic and committed to broadening American culinary horizons. Gordon’s efforts contributed to greater acceptance of insects in high-end restaurants, with establishments in major cities like Houston, Los Angeles, New York, and Washington, D.C., incorporating insect dishes on their menus.
The United Nations has also recognized the potential of edible insects in addressing food insecurity, suggesting that culinary innovation can make insect-based foods more palatable to those unfamiliar with them.
Gordon’s personal life included marriages to Maureen Cleary and Mari Mullen, both ending in divorce. In 2009, he married painter Karen Luke Fildes, who illustrated several of his books, including a revised edition of “The Eat-a-Bug Cookbook.” He is survived by his wife, three children from previous marriages, three stepchildren, and four grandchildren.
Though enthusiastic about edible insects, Gordon admitted to a personal distaste for cockroaches, describing their flavor as chemical-like—an inherent characteristic rather than a result of pesticides.
Throughout his career, Gordon sought not necessarily to convince everyone to eat insects but to encourage a reevaluation of how bugs are perceived. His legacy lies in expanding dialogue on sustainable food sources and challenging cultural norms surrounding diet.