David Hirsch, a pioneering figure in the development of California’s Sonoma Coast as a renowned wine-producing region, died Tuesday in Santa Rosa, California. He was 81. According to family members, his death was caused by respiratory failure.
Hirsch was among the first vintners to cultivate wine grapes on the challenging Sonoma Coast, an area characterized by rugged terrain, fog, and strong coastal winds. Although not the initial grower in the region, his vineyard eventually spanned more than 1,000 acres, including 77 acres dedicated to pinot noir and chardonnay, organized into more than two dozen blocks. His work sparked interest among emerging winemakers, helping the region gain recognition for its distinctive, structured wines.
In the early years, Hirsch sold grapes primarily to other winemakers, whose labels helped establish the Sonoma Coast’s reputation for refined pinot noirs and chardonnays. Notable producers such as Burt Williams and Ed Selyem of Williams Selyem, Ted Lemon of Littorai, and Steve Kistler of Kistler Vineyards relied on Hirsch’s grapes for their acclaimed wines. According to Lemon, the pinot noirs from Hirsch grapes were notable for their firm tannic structure and herbal, sage-like character. Later, Hirsch began producing wines under his own label while continuing to supply other vintners.
Hirsch purchased his initial tract of land—a former sheep ranch covering 760 acres—in 1978, when property values in the area were still modest. He planted his first two acres of grapes in 1980, influenced by a friend’s encouragement about the land’s potential for pinot noir. Despite low yields compared to other California regions—winning just one-and-a-half to two tons per acre in good years compared to four or five tons in the Napa Valley—Hirsch and other Sonoma Coast growers persevered. Early vintners faced significant challenges, including limited access to electricity and water, and difficulties with machinery maintenance.
By the mid-2000s, the Sonoma Coast had attracted a cluster of respected wineries, such as Peay Vineyards, Marcassin, Flowers, Failla, Fort Ross Vineyard, Rivers-Marie, and Cobb Wines. With demand rising, land values increased significantly compared to the modest prices Hirsch originally paid.
In 2002, Hirsch built a winery to deepen his engagement with his vineyard and began selling wines under the Hirsch Vineyards brand. In 2014, after a serious tractor accident that left him using a wheelchair, he continued his work in both vineyard and winery until his passing.
Born on Sept. 7, 1944, in the Bronx, Hirsch was the son of George and Helen Hirsch, who worked in the rare books business. He briefly attended Columbia University before embarking on a series of travels and jobs that included working on railways in Alaska and boats in Minnesota. He settled in California in 1968, initially entering the wholesale business dealing in folk art and clothing.
Hirsch attributed his eventual shift to grape growing to his love of wine, particularly the pinot noirs and chardonnays of Burgundy, France. His visits to Burgundy introduced him to both the wines and the region’s communal lifestyle, which deeply influenced his vision for his Sonoma Coast property. By 1988, he had fully committed to viticulture, seeking to build a self-sustaining community centered on shared experience and a profound connection to nature.
Hirsch is survived by his wife, Marie, three children—including daughter Jasmine Hirsch, who joined the family business in 2008 and now serves as general manager and winemaker—four siblings, and two grandchildren.
