Italian designer Alessandro Michele, known for his maximalist approach during seven years at Gucci, presented his fifth collection for Valentino on Sunday at Paris Fashion Week. Having led the Italian fashion house for just two years, Michele has already unveiled ten collections and four runway shows, signaling his swift imprint on the brand.

The show took place at the historic Sainte-Geneviève library, but the collection was decidedly modern and designed with nightlife in mind. It opened with satin bustier tops paired with knee-length skirts crafted from delicate, sometimes sheer, gauzy fabrics. Several pieces were richly embellished with beads and feathers, creating an opulent yet playful aesthetic. Menswear reflected a similarly rebellious spirit, with creased trousers and silk boxers visible above their waistbands, complementing mis-buttoned double-breasted blazers. Michele described the theme as an exploration of “glamour in the wrong way,” challenging traditional notions of elegance.

Since Michele’s arrival, Valentino’s financial performance has encountered headwinds amid a shifting luxury market. The brand reported a 15% revenue decline to €1.12 billion in 2025. Some critics note that Michele’s lavish style contrasts with the current era’s preference for understated, “quiet luxury.” However, as the fashion landscape evolves with a renewed emphasis on “personality dressing,” Michele’s flamboyant vision may be well-positioned for a resurgence.

Speaking after the show, Michele emphasized “sensuality as part of the vocabulary” for Valentino’s new direction. He dialed back the voluminous silhouettes familiar from his Gucci days, opting instead to highlight exposed skin and sleek lines. The collection included deep V-neck cotton vests and vibrant baseball caps branded with the phrase “Villain Teen.” Michele, who sported a green cap himself, explained the playful term’s resonance, noting it sounds like “Villain-Teen-O” and offers a chic way to signal a subtle defiance of fashion norms in Italian.

Valentino remains primarily owned by the Qatar-based investment firm Mayhoola, which holds a 70% stake. French luxury conglomerate Kering controls the remaining 30%, with plans to potentially acquire full ownership by 2029. The brand’s principal strength lies in red carpet dressing, a focus that features prominently in Michele’s strategy to revitalize the house. Several gowns from Sunday’s collection, adorned with bows and ruffles and offered in longer lengths, appeared crafted for Hollywood’s spotlight.

In an era where red carpet attire is scrutinized instantly through multiplatform media, Michele’s designs aim to deliver memorable impact through boldness and intricate detailing, reinforcing Valentino’s legacy in eveningwear.