In the Brighton neighborhood of Boston, a taproom is drawing attention for its distinctive approach to Indian cuisine. Aatma at Widowmaker, located inside Widowmaker Brewing, has quickly become known not only for its inventive menu but also for its integration of traditional Indian flavors with New England influences.

The restaurant operates Thursday through Sunday, with a particularly popular offering on Thursdays: vada pav, a Mumbai street food specialty consisting of a crisp potato fritter served on a bun with grilled chile and a selection of chutneys. This dish, made entirely from scratch including the bread, sells out quickly each week, drawing a loyal following. The clientele often includes members of Boston’s Indian community, ranging from college students to older couples.

Chef-owner Keith Sarasin, originally from New Hampshire and without an Indian background, credits a personal introduction to Indian cuisine nearly two decades ago as the catalyst for his culinary journey. Over time, he traveled to India, studied the country’s regional dishes, and learned Hindi, while maintaining a career in New American cuisine. This experience laid the foundation for Aatma, which began as a pop-up before opening permanently at Widowmaker late last year. The restaurant’s name means “soul” in Hindi, reflecting its deep engagement with the food and culture.

Spices are central to Aatma’s cooking, with Sarasin sourcing many directly from India and preparing spice blends in-house. Signature dishes include the “Better Butter Chicken,” which uses cashews rather than cream for a rich but lighter texture, and the benne dosa, a buttery crepe originating from Davangere in southern India, enhanced with Kashmiri chile oil and a traditional spice mix.

Aatma distinguishes itself by openly embracing a nontraditional approach. A sign at the restaurant states, “NOT AUTHENTIC,” emphasizing that its cuisine is an evolving conversation rather than a strict replication of traditional recipes. One notable example is its smash burger, inspired by Pashtun chapli kebabs, featuring masala-spiced beef, pickled onions, Amul cheese, and a smoky house-made sauce. Accompanied by tots tossed in chaat masala, this dish has gained a reputation as one of Boston’s standout burgers.

The menu at Aatma changes seasonally and balances vegetarian and halal meat options. Dishes reflect not only Indian culinary traditions but also local New England ingredients. For instance, Patra Ni Machi—a Parsi fish dish traditionally steamed in a banana leaf—is reinterpreted using local haddock, which is grilled, coated in a spiced batter, fried, and served with house-made accompaniments. Desserts incorporate regional flavors as well, including gulab jamun soaked in maple syrup and a new custard inspired by Sarasin’s New England upbringing and his mentor’s Parsi heritage.

Aatma’s casual setting complements its vibrant atmosphere, attracting a diverse crowd including students, young professionals, and families. The partnership with Widowmaker Brewing results in a natural pairing of craft beer and innovative Indian food. The taproom offers several Widowmaker brews alongside classic Indian beverages such as mango lassi, chai, and Thums Up cola.

While the space can be busy during peak hours, the restaurant manages to maintain a convivial environment, blending culinary tradition with creative reinvention in a neighborhood not typically known for such offerings. Through a combination of cultural respect and culinary experimentation, Aatma at Widowmaker has established itself as a distinct and celebrated fixture within Boston’s dining scene.