LOS ANGELES — Sqirl, the Virgil Village cafe known for its vibrant California cuisine and artisanal jams, has expanded its offerings by introducing dinner service for the first time since its opening in 2012. The move, launched in February, marks a significant evolution for the establishment that built its reputation on breakfast dishes and a celebrated line of fruit preserves.
Founded by Jessica Koslow, Sqirl gained prominence during the 2010s as a destination for fresh, inventive meals showcasing seasonal produce and playful flavor combinations. Its early acclaim stemmed largely from breakfast items like toasted brioche topped with house-made ricotta and an array of jams blending unusual ingredients such as blueberry and tarragon, or raspberry and hibiscus. Koslow initially sold these jams at local farmers’ markets before opening the full cafe, which quickly became emblematic of Los Angeles’ fresh, health-driven culinary scene.
Dinner service introduces a new dimension to Sqirl’s menu, featuring dishes that maintain the kitchen’s enthusiasm for layered acidity and fermentation but emphasize a richer, more elaborate approach. The culinary team includes chef de cuisine Sandra Felix, executive sous chef Guillermo Mendez, and Koslow herself, who remains active in the open kitchen. The dining room features communal seating and intimate tables, along with additional patio and sidewalk seating, all accentuated by branded green stationery and rolled cloth napkins.
The dinner menu is characterized by inventive reinterpretations of classic dishes. Highlights include a steak tartare enhanced with smoky tonnato sauce and cured egg yolk snow, served with delicate potato chips, and shrimp-stuffed squid — dubbed “sqimps” — lacquered with liquid aminos and grilled over binchotan charcoal. These dishes reveal an unexpected richness, with liberal use of cream, butter, and cheese, such as the chicken liver served with quince gastrique and grilled bread finished in schmaltz.
Despite the enthusiasm apparent in the kitchen’s preparations and ingredient choices, the menu’s detailed descriptions occasionally raise questions about portion expectations, and some dishes have seen mixed execution during initial tastings. Nonetheless, the bold layering of flavors—from the butter-rich yuzu sauce enveloping quartered cabbage to a two-toned agnolotti filled with beet butter—demonstrates Sqirl’s continued commitment to culinary innovation.
Sqirl’s journey has not been without controversy. In 2020, the restaurant made national headlines after a former employee shared photos depicting moldy jam, sparking widespread criticism about food safety and kitchen practices. Former staff also alleged that Koslow had taken credit for dishes developed by others and described challenging work conditions in the prep space. Koslow issued a public apology, pledged improved protocols, and maintained her role at the helm, focusing on transparency and kitchen improvements.
The impact of this scandal appears to linger, with dinner reservations currently more accessible than in past years. Yet the restaurant remains a valued part of the local dining landscape, adapting and refining its approach. Koslow recently emphasized the contributions of her team, citing Felix’s avocado dip and Mendez’s expertise in sauces as examples of collaborative success.
Sqirl’s new dinner service rounds out its portfolio, balancing rich, intense dishes with moments of whimsy, often tied back to its origins in jam-making. The dessert menu features a substantial Eton Mess adorned with fresh fruit and house-made strawberry jam, a fitting homage to the cafe’s foundational flavors. As Sqirl navigates its next chapter, it continues to embody both the innovative spirit and the complexities of Los Angeles’ evolving food culture.