Canadian-born fashion designer Edeline Lee presented her spring/summer 2027 collection at London Fashion Week in an unconventional setting, reimagining the traditional runway format by transforming a northwest London high-school gym into a live atelier. The event offered attendees a behind-the-scenes look at the detailed production process involved in each garment’s creation, including hair and makeup preparation, fittings, and the work of seamstresses and support staff.
Lee, who has lived in London for more than two decades, has long favored experimental presentations over conventional runway shows, frequently incorporating immersive performances and videos into her runway concepts. For this season, she drew inspiration from the myth of Sisyphus, focusing on themes of repetition and the pursuit of perfection, while also exploring parallels between ballet and fashion. Both disciplines, she noted, project an effortless grace while masking the intense labour behind the scenes.
The presentation featured dancers warming up alongside runway models, with studio assistants and makeup artists visible as they refined each look before it appeared on the catwalk. “I think ballet is the ultimate example of a Sisyphean myth, where they are training and labouring for that one moment of perfection and joy,” Lee said. “It reminded me of our industry, and I wanted to acknowledge the hard work in both ballet and fashion.”
The collection itself fused Lee’s signature tailoring with ballet-inspired elements—structured jackets paired with tutus, fitted bodysuits, flowing skirts, and softly draped monastic dresses contrasted with vivid crimson frocks rendered in diaphanous fabrics. Since launching her label at London Fashion Week in 2015, Lee has steadily built her reputation for blending practical yet empowered femininity, producing her collections in England using anti-wrinkle fabrics designed for durability and ease of wear.
Born in Canada to Korean parents, Lee initially faced familial skepticism toward her fashion aspirations. After completing her undergraduate studies in Canada, she moved to London to study fashion at Central Saint Martins. Early in her career, she interned for high-profile houses including Alexander McQueen and Dior under John Galliano. She later relocated to New York to assist Zac Posen in launching his label before returning to London to complete her degree in 2007.
The designer has cultivated an aesthetic defined by softer lines and practical elegance, contrasting with the theatrical styles of McQueen, Galliano, and Posen. Her concept of the “Future Lady” embodies a modern woman balancing a busy professional life with personal commitments, requiring a wardrobe that is both stylish and functional. Lee describes herself fundamentally as a dressmaker focused on creating pieces that work harmoniously with real women’s bodies and lifestyles—craft that she continues to refine with each collection.