ATLANTA — In the Virginia-Highlands neighborhood of Atlanta, the newly opened restaurant So Fox offers a distinctive take on Southern farm-to-table cuisine, blending traditional Appalachian influences with refined, seasonal preparations. The establishment, co-owned by chef Myles Moody and sommelier Rachael Pack, opened its doors in July and occupies a space that was formerly a gas station and later a burger shop.

At So Fox, Moody draws inspiration from regional foodways, such as the Appalachian practice of drying flat or pole beans to create “leather britches” for winter storage. In Atlanta’s warmer and more humid climate, however, Moody adapts this method by using an electric smoker followed by dehydration. He then incorporates the beans into broths steeped with kombu dashi, garnished with herbs like soft chervil, fresh field peas, and caviar, showcasing a commitment to highlighting simple, often overlooked Southern ingredients in elegant ways. The menu changes seasonally, featuring items like butter beans, zipper peas, and lady peas, emphasizing a deliberate focus on humble, “proletarian” elements elevated through nuanced cooking.

Moody, a native of Atlanta, trained under Southern chef Linton Hopkins at Holman and Finch and Restaurant Eugene, and also has experience at Eleven Madison Park in New York and Aska in Brooklyn, where he met Pack. Together, they named their restaurant after the “southern fox,” a nickname for the Muscadine grape native to the South.

So Fox’s interior combines an unconventional setting with a long glass-encased dining room that resonates with the dynamic energy of the surrounding neighborhood. The wine program, curated by Pack, features an accessible collection displayed behind the bar without extensive storage, encouraging the serving of wines by the glass, including selections like an aged vin jaune from Jura and Sicilian bottles from Arianna Occhipinti. The service team, dressed in white chore coats and bolo ties, offers informed and enthusiastic hospitality.

While some visits to So Fox have involved waits between courses and moments when dishes appeared uneven, such as firmer-than-expected drop dumplings, subsequent experiences showed refinement and consistency as the restaurant settles into its rhythm. The menu is noted for its poetic and ingredient-focused design, with dishes such as carefully sliced Broadbent ham complemented by pickled peppers and pecan oil illustrating the kitchen’s attention to detail.

In addition to So Fox, Moody and Pack operate Kinship Butcher, a nearby butcher counter and coffee shop emphasizing Southern ingredients, local produce, and a curated wine selection. Kinship is recognized for a breakfast sandwich that layers house-made breakfast sausage with Thomasville Tomme cheese, egg, grilled onions, arugula from their farm, and Duke’s mayonnaise. A vegetarian version featuring a smoked beet and mushroom patty with Carolina gold rice is also offered. This approach reconciles comfort food traditions with elevated culinary treatment, paralleling the ethos found at So Fox.

Together, these ventures underscore Moody and Pack’s commitment to reinterpreting Southern food culture with a balance of rustic authenticity and refined technique.