Erdem Moralıoğlu, the London-based fashion designer known simply as Erdem, recently celebrated two decades in the industry with his autumn/winter 2026 collection, marking a milestone in a career defined by intricate storytelling and a deep appreciation for the female form. Operating from his east London studio, Moralıoğlu crafts his designs through a distinctive blend of historical curiosity, literary inspiration, and imaginative detail.

Each week, Erdem retreats to the London Library in St James’s Square, where he spends a day free from distraction, drawing with a pencil on Muji sketchpads. The library’s extensive and diverse collection has played a pivotal role in shaping his creative process. While developing his spring/summer 2026 collection, he delved into the life of Hélène Smith, a late 19th-century French medium whose eccentric visions included identifying herself as a member of Marie Antoinette’s court, an Indian princess, and even a Martian space traveler. These fantastical elements were translated into the collection through surreal details such as embroidery of threads emerging from eyes on handbags, floating crochet discs resembling paper chains, and dresses with lampshade skirts accented by trailing ribbons of lace.

Erdem’s designs are frequently described as theatrical yet wearable, balancing imagination with craftsmanship tailored to real women. His work often draws on the lives of strong, unconventional women from history, including figures such as Radclyffe Hall, the English poet and novelist, and Deborah Cavendish, Duchess of Devonshire. This focus aligns with the designer’s own emphasis on character and conviction that his creations are intended to embody. Despite the narrative depth behind his collections, Erdem acknowledges that most customers prioritize comfort and beauty when choosing garments.

His approach has earned widespread recognition within the fashion community. Fashion editor Anna Wintour has called Erdem “London’s pre-eminent storyteller,” highlighting his ability to fuse literary and historical references with contemporary style. Prominent actresses such as Nicola Coughlan, Emily Blunt, Anya Taylor-Joy, Zendaya, and Taylor Swift have all worn his designs publicly, with some pieces becoming iconic on red carpets and at high-profile events. Coughlan, for example, praised his respect for the female figure and the confidence his clothes inspire.

Erdem’s autumn/winter 2026 collection, titled “Imagined Conversation,” revisits themes and muses from throughout his career. The collection continues his tradition of layering fantasy, history, and personal narrative into elegant, modern fashion. Honored with an MBE in 2020 for his contributions to fashion, Erdem has maintained his independence throughout his career, steadily growing his brand while preserving the artisanal quality and storytelling ethos that define his work.