California-based knitwear brand St John is aiming to revitalize its image and attract a younger audience under the new leadership of creative director Humberto Leon. The move follows a period of declining sales and several attempts to modernize the 64-year-old company, which has historically appealed to affluent, older women including career professionals and socialites.
Founded in 1962 by model Marie Gray and her husband Robert Gray, St John grew to prominence with its proprietary Santana knit fabric, offering crease-free suits, matching sets, and gowns. During the 1990s and early 2000s, the brand became a staple at high-end retailers such as Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue and was considered an alternative to luxury labels like Chanel. The company achieved public company status but was taken private in 1999 by Vestar Capital Partners for $22 million. It is now owned by the Lanvin Group.
Despite its former success, St John faced challenges in maintaining relevance as its core clientele aged and fashion trends shifted. Attempts to refresh the brand—including campaigns featuring Angelina Jolie and slimmer, European-style cuts—were met with resistance from loyal customers. These efforts coincided with downward revenue trends, including a 10.5% decrease in the first half of 2026. Several creative directors cycled through the company, each tasked with updating the label’s image without fully succeeding.
Leon stepped into the role four months ago, after a six-year hiatus from fashion during which he launched restaurants in Los Angeles and led creative direction for global girl group Katseye. He co-founded the influential New York retail store Opening Ceremony and revitalized the French label Kenzo as creative director from 2011 to 2019, repositioning it to appeal to younger consumers. His approach at St John emphasizes innovation rooted in the brand's heritage, including reimagining knits with statement buttons and sweater pins drawn from a vast jewelry archive, as well as reviving the dormant jewelry line with 1980s-inspired earrings and crystal necklaces.
Leon’s debut campaign features Tina Knowles, signaling a blend of nostalgia and contemporary style. He also acknowledges the lasting influence of Kelly Gray, daughter of the founders, who served in various leadership roles and was the recognisable face of the brand’s iconic and often provocative advertising campaigns for over two decades. The Y2K aesthetic is currently experiencing a resurgence in fashion, and Leon has indicated he is open to drawing from that era as part of the brand’s evolution.
St John’s trajectory highlights the challenges legacy fashion houses face in balancing heritage with trend-forward innovation to capture new markets, a challenge Leon embraces as he seeks to steer the brand into a new chapter.