In Greenland, traditional hunting and fishing continue to shape the local cuisine, reflecting the country’s Arctic environment and cultural heritage. The coastal town of Ilulissat, north of the capital Nuuk, offers a glimpse into this unique food culture, where marine and terrestrial wildlife such as cod, seal, reindeer, musk ox, seabirds, and whale remain staple ingredients.
Visitors aboard the MS Fridtjof Nansen, an expedition vessel operated by HX Expeditions, have the opportunity to experience this culinary heritage firsthand through a fjord-to-fork excursion known as Tide to Table. Led by Inunnguaq Hegelund, one of Greenland’s foremost chefs, the tour introduces guests to the region’s wild catch and traditional preparation methods. Hegelund, who is based in Nuuk and trained in French cuisine, combines contemporary Nordic techniques with a commitment to preserving Greenlandic foodways.
The journey begins with a boat trip into Disko Bay, where local fishing guides assist participants in hand-lining Arctic cod, a plentiful species in the area. Unlike farmed seafood, all of Greenland’s marine ingredients are wild caught, which Hegelund describes as making Greenland “the wildest kitchen in the world.” The catch is then transported back to shore, to the home of Emilie, a local host who, along with her daughter Pilu, welcomed guests to a traditional kaffemik celebration. This open-house event focuses on sharing food and hospitality, often involving extensive preparation and an abundance of dishes. Though the hosts initially expected a dozen visitors, accommodating 17 was no issue, underscoring Greenland’s cultural emphasis on generosity.
Guests sampled a variety of offerings featuring local ingredients such as dried narwhal—a traditional delicacy—reindeer meatballs, crumbed halibut, shrimp, and wild scallops. The diverse menu reflects hunting and fishing practices where agriculture is limited by the Arctic climate.
In the evening, the MS Fridtjof Nansen’s Lindstrom restaurant served a tasting menu designed by Hegelund showcasing modern interpretations of Greenlandic ingredients. Dishes included halibut tartare, shrimp bisque with baked cod and dill oil, baked halibut accompanied by Jerusalem artichokes and herb sauce, and a fruit-based apple cake finished with Champagne sauce and a cod skin tuile.
While traditional foods such as whale and beluga remain part of Greenland’s culinary identity, Hegelund emphasizes caution regarding their commercial use. He acknowledges that overexploitation could jeopardize local food security and insists on careful management, reflecting ongoing efforts within the New Arctic Kitchen movement. This coalition of chefs and food experts is dedicated to revitalizing and sustaining indigenous food traditions across the Arctic and Subarctic regions, balancing innovation with respect for cultural and environmental limits.
