For more than two decades, French archaeologist Dr. Laila Nehmé has been at the forefront of uncovering and documenting the ancient civilizations that once thrived in the AlUla region of northwestern Saudi Arabia. Beginning her work there in 2002, Nehmé has collaborated with the French National Centre for Scientific Research and the Saudi Ministry of Culture to explore archaeological remains that span hundreds of thousands of years.

Nehmé’s primary focus has been on the Nabataeans, an ancient Arab people best known for their capital Petra, located in present-day Jordan. Prior to her work in AlUla, she conducted archaeological research in Syria and Jordan throughout the late 1980s and 1990s. The discovery and study of Hegra, also known as Madain Salih or Al-Hijr, marked a significant progression in her career given the site’s status as a major Nabataean settlement.

The AlUla area offers a rare opportunity to study a continuous human presence from the Paleolithic era, approximately 200,000 years ago, through to the more recent past, including settlement remains from the 20th century. Nehmé notes that the region’s archaeological layers provide crucial insights into the evolution of political systems, economies, and technological developments across a vast timeline.

AlUla’s sandstone cliffs and rock faces feature a wealth of inscriptions in various scripts and languages, including Nabataean Aramaic, which Nehmé has specialized in throughout her career. The site also houses notable examples of prehistoric rock art, depicting everything from cattle to camels and human figures, underscoring both the cultural and artistic heritage of the area.

Among the significant findings at Hegra are several monumental tombs containing dozens of well-preserved skeletons. The dry climate and low humidity have enabled exceptional preservation, with some remains even retaining hair, traces of skin, and fragments of textiles or leather shrouds. These discoveries have provided material evidence that extends understanding of ancient burial practices and daily life.

One particular textile fragment found in a tomb was identified after extensive analysis as wild silk. Detailed scientific tests—including chemical dye analysis and proteomics—confirmed the material and suggested species origin, offering evidence that AlUla was a point of intersection between the ancient Incense Route and the Silk Road trade networks.

Nehmé underscores the rigorous methodology required for archaeological work, emphasizing the importance of careful documentation because once layers of soil and materials are excavated, they are permanently removed. She likens archaeology to “the architecture of deconstruction,” where meticulous recording preserves the context and allows researchers to piece together the past accurately.

Before large-scale excavation, archaeologists conduct detailed surveys to define site boundaries, record visible features, and collect surface artifacts such as pottery shards. Small test trenches or soundings may also be excavated to establish a preliminary chronology.

Working in the challenging desert environment demands not only technical skill but patience, dedication, and a sensitivity to subtle variations in soil and material. By reconstructing the story of AlUla’s diverse civilizations, Nehmé and her colleagues continue to contribute to a broader understanding of human history in the Arabian Peninsula.