The French parliament passed new legislation on Monday aimed at regulating ultrafast fashion retailers and Chinese e-commerce platforms, marking a significant step in the country’s efforts to address the environmental impact of rapidly produced, low-cost clothing. The law targets companies that flood the market with large quantities of new items at prices too low to justify repair or sustainable use.

Under the new regulations, businesses identified as operating within the ultrafast fashion sector face fines up to €6 (approximately $6.85) per product this year, with penalties set to increase to €10 per item by 2030. The legislation also prohibits advertising and influencer marketing campaigns by these companies, intending to reduce the promotion of throwaway fashion.

Ultrafast fashion retailers like Shein and marketplaces such as Temu have expanded significantly in France by offering trendy apparel at very low prices, challenging traditional French retailers and raising concerns about the environmental and economic consequences. Senator Michaël Weber, a Socialist party member, argued that fast fashion is damaging the country’s textile industry.

Shein has disputed its classification as an ultrafast fashion retailer. The company maintains that its model, which involves producing limited initial stock and replenishing only based on demand, is a responsible approach rather than part of the problem. Temu, meanwhile, describes itself as a platform that connects consumers directly with manufacturers, helping keep costs down.

Following the parliamentary vote, Shein said it was reviewing the new rules and noted that some issues had been previously raised by the European Commission. While the commission supports the law’s environmental goals, it expressed concerns about specific aspects, including the definition of ultrafast fashion, the obligations imposed on online marketplaces, and the ban on advertising.

France becomes the first European country to implement legislation specifically targeting ultrafast fashion business models. Although the European Union has enacted broader sustainability and marketplace regulations, none have addressed ultrafast fashion specifically. The move reflects growing unease across Europe regarding the rapid expansion of Chinese e-commerce companies.

Italy is considering similar measures, with proposed legislation to introduce an environmental rating for clothing, restrict advertising by ultrafast fashion firms, and levy charges on low-value shipments from outside the EU. Germany, alongside France and the Netherlands, recently urged the European Commission to strengthen EU-wide rules on the sector.

The European Environment Agency reports that the EU generated nearly seven million tons of textile waste in 2022, averaging about 35 pounds per person. In France, ultrafast fashion’s impact has been especially visible, with Shein opening its first physical store in Paris last November, only to face protests and eventually losing its partnership with the BHV Marais department store earlier this month.