Three New York City chefs who previously operated mobile food carts or pop-up stands have transitioned to permanent brick-and-mortar restaurants, marking a significant shift in their culinary journeys and expanding access to their distinctive international cuisines.
One notable example is Khurelbaatar Ochir, the owner of Mongolian Momo King, who closed his mobile dumpling cart earlier this year to open a full-service restaurant in the East Village. Originally from Mongolia, Ochir was drawn to New York after a modeling job brought him to the city. His cart specialized in traditional Mongolian dishes, including steamed buuz dumplings filled with chicken, beef or lamb, shaped with a signature volcano-like opening. Following a sweltering heat wave that pushed temperatures inside his cart above 100 degrees, Ochir and his wife, Franka Cappella, decided to seek a permanent location. The new establishment offers not only the popular dumplings but also other Mongolian specialties such as tsuivan stir-fried noodles and shol, a lamb and tripe soup, as well as bortstoi khiitstei tsai, a salted milk tea enhanced with dried beef and ghee.
In Queens, Myo Lin Thway, a Burmese chef who began his career selling hand-stretched palata at food festivals and church fairs, has established Burmese Bites, a restaurant in Astoria that reflects his evolving culinary ambition. Thway, who left a day job to dedicate himself fully to his culinary business, presents a menu featuring traditional Burmese dishes like dum pot biryani and nga hin, a rich fish curry. The restaurant remains a family operation, with Thway managing the dining room and his wife, Rebecca Nant, preparing tea leaf salad in the kitchen. The staff also includes relatives, such as his nephew, who assists with serving duties.
Frances Roman, another chef with roots in temporary food venues such as food halls and night markets, commenced operations at Cocotazo in East Harlem in December. The décor combines a lively atmosphere with personal touches, including family photographs and eclectic memorabilia. Roman’s menu highlights Puerto Rican flavors, with offerings like tripleta sandwiches on pan sobao bread, bacalaito fritters, and traditional desserts borrowed from her family recipes, such as bread pudding and flan. The dedicated restaurant space has enabled Roman to experiment, as exemplified by specials like chicken with fried rice seasoned with guava and Sichuan peppercorns.
These chefs’ moves from mobile setups to fixed locations demonstrate an ongoing evolution in New York’s culinary landscape, providing diners with deeper access to authentic and inventive ethnic foods while allowing the chefs greater creative and operational stability.
