The trend of small plates intended for sharing, a hallmark of American dining for nearly two decades, is facing renewed scrutiny as some diners and critics call for a return to larger, more substantial meals. Originating from the Spanish tapas tradition, the small plate concept has become ubiquitous across many U.S. restaurants, yet questions remain about its practicality and value.

Luke Fortney, a New York-based restaurant reporter, argues that the era of small plates “meant to be shared” has reached its limits. Citing rising dining costs and cooler weather, he advocates for “big plates meant for hogging” — hearty meals that combine protein, multiple carbohydrates, and vegetables on a single platter. Contrary to expectations, these larger dishes often come at a lower price point than some smaller, trendier items like hamachi crudo.

Several establishments in New York City exemplify this preference for large, filling servings. In Queens, near the Rego Park subway station, Registan Kitchen offers a signature Samarkand plov, an Uzbek rice and meat dish named after a city in southern Uzbekistan. The dish features shredded beef or lamb on the bone, hard-boiled eggs, cubed potatoes and carrots, and sweet raisins, all layered together. Priced at $25 for lunch, the meal also includes a vinegary side salad which some find substantial enough to curb their appetite, resulting in sizable take-home portions.

Brooklyn’s Crown Heights neighborhood hosts Trinidad Golden Place, a Caribbean bakery and eatery known for its generous offerings. Customers line up throughout the day, especially anticipating 3 p.m. when currant rolls are freshly baked. Patrons often come for the “Big Treats,” towering meals including curried crab, Friday-only Trinidadian dumplings, oversized oxtail roti, and takeout boxes brimming with pepper beef fried rice. The house special is particularly notable for bundling fried rice, multiple types of noodles, a cabbage salad, and a quarter barbecued chicken into one overflowing container.

In Manhattan’s Chinatown, Spicy Village has gained a reputation for modest traditional fare, but its dapanji, or “big tray chicken,” stands out as a platter designed to satisfy large appetites. This dish arrives in a cauldron-like vessel filled with chicken pieces simmered in a dark stew flavored with cumin and anise. Diners can enhance the meal by ordering plates of thick, hand-pulled noodles to soak up the sauce, with the option to add multiple orders until fullness compels a halt.

While the small plate tradition still persists widely, these examples reflect a growing appetite for sizable, value-rich dishes that emphasize a full plate rather than multiple small ones to share. Whether these big plates become a new standard or remain niche exceptions, they offer diners an alternative approach to communal eating and meal satisfaction.