On a recent morning at Carters Point along the Saint John River in New Brunswick, Captain Cepea led a fishing expedition targeting sturgeon, ancient fish prized for their roe, which is processed into caviar. Cepea, who holds a PhD in sturgeon biology, operates Acadian Sturgeon and Caviar, Inc., a business that combines fishing with conservation efforts and tourism.

The fishing trip began at 6 a.m. with Captain Cepea and his crew navigating the river in flat-bottomed boats to check nets deployed in designated areas licensed for sturgeon fishing. After encountering two empty nets, the team found a substantial sturgeon caught in the third. The fish, approximately six feet long and weighing over 100 pounds, was carefully removed from the net and transferred to the boat.

To determine the fish’s suitability for harvesting, Cepea’s crew conducted a biopsy by inserting a probe near the sturgeon’s tail to extract a small tissue sample. The color of the sample indicates the fish’s sex: white means male, which are generally released, while black signals female, whose roe is harvested for caviar. Female sturgeon are typically euthanized for their roe and meat.

Sturgeon have existed for millions of years but face significant population declines due to historical overfishing. Fishing for sturgeon in the region is tightly regulated, with strict quotas and daily reporting to government authorities. Cepea, one of only two licensed sturgeon fishermen in New Brunswick, also operates a large hatchery aimed at replenishing the population. His team uses methods akin to in vitro fertilization, manually fertilizing eggs to produce thousands of young sturgeon, which are raised in the hatchery for their first year before transfer to an onsite farm to mature over nine additional years.

Following the morning catch, participants on the expedition enjoy a multi-course luncheon featuring caviar in each dish. Cepea demonstrated the traditional method of tasting caviar by placing a portion on the back of one’s hand and encouraged pairing it with champagne to cleanse the palate. The ceremonial opening of the champagne bottles with a scimitar added theatrical flair to the meal.

The event highlighted the delicate balance between sustainable harvesting and conservation. Cepea’s work reflects an effort to preserve an ancient species while supporting a niche market for high-quality caviar. The sturgeon’s long evolutionary history underscores the importance of protecting the species for future generations.