As demand for nonalcoholic (NA) beverages continues to rise, the wine industry faces unique challenges in developing NA wines that satisfy both casual drinkers and connoisseurs. The complexity of wine’s chemical makeup and its typically high alcohol content make producing compelling alcohol-free alternatives difficult, according to winemakers and sommeliers.

Creating nonalcoholic wines requires more than simply removing alcohol. Winemakers must compensate for the loss of volatile aromas and the viscosity that alcohol imparts. “If you remove alcohol completely, in order to replicate wine, you have to find out how to add in volatile aromas and viscosity,” said Laura Barrett, a winemaker at Clif Family Winery in St. Helena, California. Without this, NA wines can taste thin and sour.

In earlier phases of NA wine production, some bottles relied heavily on added sugars and flavorings, resulting in overly sweet products likened to canned fruit cocktail rather than fresh fruit. However, technological improvements have enhanced the quality and variety of NA wines available, making them more expressive and enjoyable. Michael Markarian, sommelier and wine director at Oyster Oyster in Washington, D.C., noted that many consumers are pleasantly surprised by the progress made in recent years.

Despite advancements, challenges remain. Techniques to fully capture the “typicity” of wine—the expression of its grape variety and origin—are still imperfect. Napa-based winemaker Evyn Cameron pointed out that current terminology falls short, suggesting the need for new language to describe NA wine characteristics.

Experts recommend certain types of NA wines as more successful. Sparkling varieties often fare better due to bubbles providing texture lost in dealcoholization processes. Aromatic whites like Riesling, which traditionally have lower alcohol content, are also good candidates for NA versions. Red wines remain more challenging, but some producers, such as France’s Maison Chavin with its Chavin Zéro line and Sweden’s Oddbird, have garnered positive attention.

Among widely recommended bottles are Germany’s Leitz Eins Zwei Zero Sparkling Riesling, praised for its vibrant citrus notes and comparability to traditional sparkling wines, and South African Lautus Non-Alcoholic Sparkling Rosé, noted for its crisp finish and balanced profile. Other options include Oddbird’s Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre blend, Unified Ferments’ fermented Snow Chrysanthemum tea which falls into a wine alternative category, and the premium French Bloom Le Rosé, distinguished by its certified organic status and complex flavors.

The audience for NA wines is diverse, complicating expectations and market positioning. Markarian identifies two primary groups: those who avoid wine altogether and seek beverages that taste distinct from traditional wines, and wine enthusiasts who want NA versions as substitutes to moderate alcohol consumption. This dichotomy influences how products are developed and received.

Some industry professionals advocate focusing on fermented teas and other wine alternatives until NA winemaking technology improves further. Others suggest decoupling NA wines from traditional wine marketing to set more realistic expectations for consumers.

While strides have been made, the nonalcoholic wine category remains a work in progress, with ongoing efforts to refine techniques and broaden choices for consumers seeking alcohol-free options.