Hanif Kureishi, the acclaimed writer, recently recounted his experiences traveling in Sicily following a life-altering spinal injury that left him tetraplegic. The journey marked his first trip away from home since a 2022 accident in Rome, where he sustained a severe neck injury. Despite the significant challenges posed by his disability, Kureishi embarked on a weeklong holiday along the southern coast of Sicily, near Agrigento, accompanied by his wife Isabella, ex-partner Tracey, their son Carlo, his carer, and their host, a scientist and doctor known as Lady G.
The outing proved arduous from the start. At one point during a visit to a beachside restaurant, Kureishi became stuck in loose sand after attempting to avoid an inaccessible boardwalk step. His heavy wheelchair sank, leaving him immobilized in the intense Sicilian heat. Despite efforts from family members to free him, it was ultimately a group of local men who helped pull him to safety. Shortly after, Kureishi discovered that his catheter had come loose in the struggle, adding another layer of difficulty to the ordeal. Yet, despite these setbacks, he described moments of gratitude for the support around him and for the opportunity to witness the sea — a sight he had not expected to see again.
The trip underscored the complex realities faced by people with disabilities traveling internationally. Kureishi detailed the extensive preparations required, including notifying airports in advance, transporting medical equipment such as a hoist and sling, arranging for local physiotherapy, and managing the logistics of specialized transport. The experience of transitioning through airports was notably mixed: while British ground staff adhered strictly to protocol and communicated primarily with his family rather than directly with him, Palermo airport staff were more hands-on, although Kureishi described the entire process as humiliating, with disabled passengers becoming unavoidable centers of attention.
The holiday took place at Lady G’s summer estate, a historical Sicilian property featuring a courtyard surrounded by outbuildings, olive groves, and fruit trees. Throughout the week, Kureishi and his family enjoyed traditional Sicilian cuisine prepared by local chefs, adapting meals to his particular dietary preferences. Despite his inability to feed himself, Kureishi found warmth in the care provided by Isabella and Tracey, who took turns assisting with his meals. He reflected on the deepening relationship between the two women, united by their shared commitment to his wellbeing since his injury.
Kureishi’s connection to Italy is deeply personal, rooted in his relationship with Isabella, a native Roman. Prior to his accident, the couple divided their time between London and Italy, with summers often spent exploring the countryside and coastal regions. Revisiting this environment brought both challenges and moments of comfort for Kureishi, who acknowledged the necessity of mental resilience in facing the daily indignities of living with tetraplegia.
The author and his son Carlo had not vacationed together with both parents since Carlo was very young, adding an emotional significance to the trip. Kureishi’s narrative poignantly captures the difficulties of disabled travel and caregiving, while also highlighting themes of family unity and perseverance. The experience is part of a forthcoming publication, "Are You with Me Now?," co-written by Kureishi and Carlo Kureishi, scheduled for release in November.