Cheesemongers in the United States are facing unprecedented challenges despite growing public interest in artisanal and specialty cheeses. While recent cultural milestones, such as the release of a cheesemongering documentary and an American winning the gold medal at the Mondial du Fromage competition in France, suggest a rising appreciation for the craft, many independent cheese sellers report shrinking margins and uncertain futures.

A combination of economic pressures, including tariffs, rising production costs, and disruptions linked to the conflict in the Middle East, has led to increased prices for both imported and domestic cheeses. Larger grocery chains have responded by expanding grab-and-go sections with prepackaged cheese, reducing the need for skilled mongers and making it difficult for smaller, independent counters to compete on price and service. The resulting squeeze on margins has contributed to the closing of several well-regarded cheese shops in recent years, including Bedford Cheese Shop in New York, DTLA Cheese Superette in Los Angeles, and the Cheese Shop of Salem in Massachusetts.

For many in the trade, cheesemongers are more than just sellers—they are advocates, educators, and artisans who maintain the connection between customers and cheese producers. They curate selections, advise customers on pairings and flavor profiles, and care for products through affinage techniques such as brining and misting to ensure optimal quality. Jodi Ohlsen Read, a cheesemaker and producer at Shepherd’s Way Farms in Minnesota, emphasized the importance of trust between cheesemakers and mongers, noting that shared passion can create remarkable experiences for consumers.

Nevertheless, the labor-intensive nature of cheesemongering presents challenges in staffing, especially for smaller operations. Many report difficulty attracting and retaining employees willing to work long hours for minimum wage while managing heavy products and maintaining service standards. Hannah Kinney, who opened Jaybird Superette in San Diego just five months ago, acknowledged the ever-present risk of business failure despite strong customer interest.

The COVID-19 pandemic also altered the cheesemongering business model significantly. Precautions against virus transmission resulted in the elimination of in-store tastings and personal cutting services, with many merchants shifting toward vacuum-sealed, prepackaged cheese. While some shops have maintained a hybrid approach—offering sliced-to-order cheese alongside grab-and-go options—larger grocers such as Whole Foods have largely retained the prepackaged model, limiting opportunities for new or small-scale cheesemakers to gain shelf space.

Keith Adams, a California cheesemaker who recently closed his two brands, cited diminished retailer interest following COVID-19 as a major factor driving his exit from the business. At the same time, some independents have adapted by diversifying services. Jessica Galen of Bloomy Dobbs in Dobbs Ferry, New York, has incorporated classes, off-site events, and bespoke cheese board services to supplement traditional sales.

Despite these difficulties, many cheesemongers remain committed to their work, seeing it as a labor of love rather than a typical retail venture. Sarah Simiele, who operates the Curd Nerd in Syracuse, New York, noted that while she cannot compete on price with major chains, her personalized knowledge of customers’ tastes creates value that large retailers cannot easily replicate.

As the industry navigates these conflicting trends—renewed consumer interest paired with economic and operational hurdles—the future of independent cheesemongers remains uncertain, but their role as interpreters of cheese culture continues to resonate with those seeking a deeper connection to their food.