In the spring following his initial attempt, Anthony Bourdain returned to Provincetown's Flagship to reapply for a position at the broiler station but found the establishment under new ownership. The restaurant was now managed by Ciriaco Cozzi, who also operated Ciro’s, an Italian eatery known for its rigorous culinary standards and high-volume service. Located on a nearby lane characterized by its distinctive clamshell pavement and lingering garlic aroma, Ciro’s stood out as a busy and respected venue.

Under Cozzi’s leadership, Ciro’s maintained a commitment to quality and traditional preparation techniques. Whole veal legs were procured and carefully portioned into scallopine and cutlets, while trimmings were hand-chopped for meatballs. Garlic was freshly sliced just before cooking, and with the backing of a skilled and efficient kitchen team, Ciro’s consistently served approximately 500 dinners nightly throughout the week.

Bourdain, who in his memoir referred to Ciro’s as “Mario’s,” was deeply impressed by the cohesiveness and unique culture of the kitchen staff. He described the cooks as moving “in a pack” with a specialized dialect—an intricate blend of eighteenth-century English literary references, military drill language, and a sardonic tone—a secretive code that was widely emulated but not easily penetrated.

Despite Bourdain’s admiration, the reception from the kitchen staff was less welcoming. During his trial period, after an incident involving a burn from a frying pan, Bourdain was demoted to working salads. Alexej Getmanov, one of the cooks at Ciro’s, recalled that the team regarded Bourdain with skepticism, viewing him as inexperienced and simultaneously overconfident and uncertain. Getmanov said the disrespect motivated Bourdain to prove himself, leading to his enrollment at the Culinary Institute of America in February 1977.

Today, the restaurant operates under its original name, Ciro & Sal’s, and remains in the hands of the Luster family, with James and Larry Luster among the staff who once worked alongside Bourdain. The establishment continues to honor its culinary traditions, including the meticulous breakdown of whole veal legs—a practice even rarer now than during Bourdain’s time—while preserving the distinctive character and scents of that historic lane in Provincetown.