John Healey, the UK chancellor, has recently drawn attention for his fondness for HP Sauce, a condiment with deep historical and cultural significance in Britain. Known for its blend of tomatoes, tamarind, molasses, dates, soy sauce, spices, and malt vinegar, HP Sauce was created in the 1870s by Nottinghamshire grocer Frederick Gibson Garton. The brand’s name reportedly originates from its presence in a dining room at the Houses of Parliament, symbolizing a connection between British industry and governance.
Healey is frequently seen with a bottle of HP Sauce on hand, including in his briefcase and on his office desk, highlighting his attachment to this traditional British staple. This preference resonates with the Labour Party’s historical association with the sauce, notably during the 1960s when it was colloquially referred to as “Wilson’s Gravy.” The nickname stemmed from then-Prime Minister Harold Wilson’s reputed habit of using the sauce liberally, as recounted by his wife Mary Wilson.
The story of HP Sauce also reflects broader economic and industrial trends in the UK. Originally produced by HP Foods, the brand was acquired by France’s Groupe Danone in 1988 before being sold to American company Heinz in 2005 for £470 million. Heinz initially pledged to maintain production at HP’s historic Aston factory in Birmingham but reversed this decision a year later, relocating manufacturing to the Netherlands. This move, aimed at improving productivity, led to the loss of 125 local jobs and was sharply criticized by the Transport and General Workers Union, which branded the closure a "savage decision."
In addition to the production shift, Heinz reduced the sauce’s salt content in 2011, a change that drew criticism from traditionalists who saw it as diminishing the original recipe. HP Sauce’s popularity has also declined in the face of evolving consumer tastes. By 2014, domestic sales had dropped by up to 19 percent as British consumers increasingly turned to globally inspired condiments like sriracha and peri-peri sauces.
While the current Labour government under Andy Burnham has rejected claims that its policies represent a retreat to the economic approaches of the 1970s, Healey’s continued endorsement of HP Sauce seems to evoke that era’s political symbolism. His public embrace of this distinctly British product underscores a connection to historical Labour values, even as the country’s culinary preferences and economic landscape have shifted.
