In London, a new interpretation of the classic Hong Kong-style French toast is attracting attention for its innovative approach and departure from tradition. Cantoast, a pop-up bakery led by chef-owner Haydon Wong and pastry chef Natalie Tj, offers a reimagined take on the popular dish, featuring deep-fried milk bread topped with diverse flavored custards such as pandan coconut, salted egg, and black sesame.

Unlike the conventional version familiar to many diners in Hong Kong—typically characterized by a thick slice of golden toast crowned with a melting pat of butter and syrup—Cantoast’s creation bears little resemblance to the traditional cha chaan teng staple. Wong cites inspiration from Korean cafes and Japanese bakeries, blending elements of Asian pastries to develop something new rather than replicating classic recipes.

The bakery recently opened a six-month café in central London after cups of success at markets like Victoria Park and Shoreditch Market. Alongside coffee, the menu features Korean-inspired salt breads and a rotating selection of seasonal pastries. Wong describes the physical space as an opportunity to fully realize their vision, extending beyond the pop-up and home kitchen origins.

Wong’s culinary roots trace back to his family’s Chinese takeaway in Torquay, southwest England, which operated since 1992. Initially pursuing a degree in biological sciences at Imperial College London, he eventually found his passion in cooking, progressing from commis chef roles to entrepreneurship while maintaining a strong online presence chronicling the realities of running a small food business.

The distinctive nature of Cantoast’s toast sparked debate after it went viral via social media, drawing both curiosity and criticism, particularly from members of the Hong Kong diaspora. Some have challenged whether the creation qualifies as traditional Hong Kong-style French toast, leading Wong to reflect on questions of cultural identity and authenticity. He acknowledges the dish diverges from typical cha chaan teng offerings and notes that even in Hong Kong, no product exactly mirrors their version.

Wong emphasizes that while early in his career he sought to earn validation by adhering closely to heritage expectations, his current approach values innovation and individual expression. He recognizes that purist perspectives persist, but views Cantoast as a bridge to broaden awareness of Hong Kong and Asian desserts, introducing them in new formats to Western audiences.

The collaboration between Wong and Tj combines culinary creativity and business acumen, with Wong focused on recipe development and Tj managing operational aspects. Their partnership underscores their commitment to evolving Asian baking traditions within a contemporary context, aiming to carve out a unique space in London’s competitive food scene.