Glenn Martens concluded his six-year tenure as creative director of Diesel with a show that blended provocative theatrics and innovative fashion at Milan Fashion Week. The final runway presentation was marked by a sensuous atmosphere, featuring performances by models and audience members alike, culminating in a display that reflected Martens’s signature hedonistic and boundary-pushing style.
Martens, who joined Diesel in 2020, leaves the brand as he shifts focus to his role at Maison Margiela. During his leadership, he notably transformed Diesel’s reputation from an overlooked jeans label into a dynamic platform for experimental design and craftsmanship. His creative approach expanded the brand’s appeal beyond denim essentials, elevating Diesel into a prominent and eagerly anticipated fixture in Milan’s fashion calendar.
The final collection illustrated Martens’s vision by reimagining the lifestyle of the brand’s youthful, club-centered demographic as slightly older, working professionals transitioning between day and night. The designs featured an eclectic mix of tailored pieces, casualwear, and statement items that blurred the lines between different materials and styles. Notable elements included faded denim coated to mimic leather, lilac suits detailed with lounge-style stitching, knitwear that merged seamlessly into striped shirting, and trench coats with distressed overlays suggesting decay. Laser-cut sweatshirts emulated natural motifs, while inventive pieces such as leather trousers with integrated foot coverings—dubbed “pantasocks”—offered functional yet avant-garde twists.
Additionally, the collection maintained Diesel’s irreverent edge with extremely abbreviated hot pants worn by models of all genders. The final model closed the show wearing these miniature denim shorts paired with a white buttoned-down shirt—a deliberate nod to the first look Martens presented for Diesel during the pandemic in October 2021, which was originally shown via video.
Martens’s work has been widely regarded as a significant turnaround for the brand, proving that thoughtful, innovative design can alter the course of a heritage label. His departure leaves Diesel with a clearly defined identity and a foundation for future creative directions.