Humberto Leon has taken the helm as creative director of St. John Knits, aiming to revitalize the 64-year-old fashion brand known for its heritage in luxury knitwear. Leon, who assumed the role four months ago, brings a blend of strategic vision and cultural acumen to the Anaheim-based label, which has struggled to attract younger consumers despite its storied history.

St. John, founded in 1962 by model Marie Gray and her husband Robert Gray, gained renown for its crease-resistant Santana knit suits and elegant separates favored by affluent career women and socialites. The brand enjoyed peak prominence in the 1990s and early 2000s, becoming a leading women’s apparel name at retailers such as Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. However, after being taken private in 1999 and changing ownership—now under the Lanvin Group—the brand underwent a series of creative shifts that failed to sustain or grow its appeal, leading to declining revenue, including a reported 10.5% drop in the first half of 2026 compared to previous periods.

Leon is St. John’s latest creative director following several predecessors who sought to inject contemporary relevance into the company. Previous efforts included a 2020 appointment of Zoe Turner, who had experience under Dior designers John Galliano and Raf Simons, followed by Enrico Chiarparin and stylist Karla Welch in 2022, whose collections drew on California glamour but did not significantly alter the brand’s trajectory. Now, Leon could bring a new impetus after a six-year hiatus from fashion design, during which he co-created the girl group Katseye and explored hospitality ventures.

Leon is known for his work co-founding the influential retail concept Opening Ceremony and for his tenure at Kenzo, where, alongside partner Carol Lim, he successfully repositioned the brand from a fading legacy label to a contemporary global player with annual revenue exceeding 300 million euros by 2019.

At St. John, Leon is emphasizing the brand’s original narrative of comfort and sophistication rooted in California heritage, seeking to engage a cross-generational audience. The label’s core customer today tends to be professional women in their 40s, including attorneys and corporate clients, reflecting a shift from the brand’s earlier clientele. Leon’s first offering, a fall capsule collection available now, features updated knits, nylon taffeta outerwear, denim, and accessories that draw on St. John’s archival jewelry pieces. Notably, the collection marks a departure from the signature Santana knit, taking a fresh approach to knitwear design.

St. John’s current chief executive, Mandy West, highlighted the evolving profile of the brand’s clients and the need to reflect the realities of their modern lives. Leon’s vision includes reviving the brand’s dormant jewelry line with bold pieces reminiscent of the 1980s, presenting a modern yet historically grounded look.

Leon’s campaign debut stars Tina Knowles and nods to the brand’s storied past, including the iconic presence of Kelly Gray, daughter of the founders, who was a long-time face of St. John’s distinctive ad campaigns through the 1980s and early 2000s. Those campaigns mixed subtle provocation with refined tailoring for a clientele that valued discretion paired with style. Leon acknowledges the lingering cultural appeal of that era, considering the current resurgence of early 2000s trends.

With this blend of heritage and innovation, Leon aims to deliver a revitalized St. John that balances respect for its origins with an injection of contemporary energy.