Cider in Britain is undergoing a notable transformation as smaller producers focus on enhancing quality and variety, challenging long-standing perceptions of the drink. Traditionally viewed as a cheap, overly sweet alternative to beer or as cloudy scrumpy consumed casually, cider is increasingly being crafted with an attention to apple varieties and production techniques that echo the precision of winemaking.
This evolving approach emphasizes the diversity of apple types and their growing conditions. Similar to grapes in wine, apples vary widely in flavor and texture depending on their variety and terroir. Unlike grapes, exact apple reproduction is achieved through grafting rather than planting seeds, which often results in random and unpredictable varieties—some potentially becoming prized in the future. Producing exceptional cider can hinge on mastering a single apple variety, such as the dabinett or kingston black, or skillfully blending multiple types to balance their distinct characteristics. Regional preferences also play a role; for example, Somerset producers typically use bittersweet cider apples, while Kent makers often incorporate sweeter dessert apples.
Fermentation methods add another layer of complexity. Some cidermakers use champagne yeast strains to highlight the fruit’s natural flavors, while others rely on wild yeasts native to their orchards, introducing unique and sometimes unpredictable taste profiles. Additional aging in oak barrels contributes further nuances to the final product.
Several new ciders and perry reflect this trend, offering a departure from conventional mass-market options. The Kent Cider Company’s Waken (4.2%) combines a strong, clear cider with fresh cloudy juice to produce a medium-sweet, still beverage aimed at refreshing drinkers without high alcohol levels. Kicking Goat Dry Craft Cider (4.8%) uses Somerset apples exclusively, despite sourcing from orchards in both Somerset and Kent, yielding a crisp cider with subtle oak notes.
Sandford Orchards’ Katja (6.8%) utilizes a dessert apple with delicate fruit aromas, positioning the cider as a lower-alcohol alternative to prosecco. The Newt Dabinett (5.1%) showcases a single-variety cider made from the signature Somerset dabinett apple, delivering a rich, fruity, and oaky profile that remains crisp. Showerings’ Triple Vintage (6.8%), a blend of three vintages from a single orchard, seeks to offer elegance akin to fine wine, reflecting the pedigree of the family behind the Babycham brand.
Finally, Oliver’s Eskimo Eyes Fine Perry (6%) stands out as an oaky, citrus-tinged, and tropical-flavored perry crafted from pears fermented with wild yeasts and aged in wine and rum barrels, exemplifying the sophisticated possibilities in the category.
These new options encourage consumers to experience cider in stemmed glasses to fully appreciate their complexity, signaling a move away from the casual, pint-sized consumption of the past toward a more refined appreciation of the drink’s potential.
