Ramallah, West Bank — In the heart of Ramallah, the bustling administrative center of the Palestinian Authority, two longstanding ice cream shops—Rukab’s and Baladna—stand as emblematic fixtures of the city’s cultural fabric. Both specializing in booza, a traditional Levantine ice cream known for its dense, elastic texture and slow melting quality, the two establishments have cultivated devoted followings over decades.

Rukab’s, founded in 1941 by one of Ramallah’s original families, occupies a prominent location near al-Manara Plaza on the city’s main thoroughfare, informally referred to as Rukab Street. The family business is now run by Jimmy Rukab, the fourth generation proprietor, whose great-grandmother first crafted booza in the 1930s under British Mandate regulations. Throughout the years, Rukab’s vendors have maintained a distinctive presence on the streets, continuing to call out their signature “Booza Rukab” amid the city’s daily clamor.

Baladna, meaning “our town” or “our country” in Arabic, was established in 1992 by former Rukab’s employee Iskandar Imseeh and his brother Hanna, marking the start of a friendly rivalry. The shop has introduced a variety of new flavors over time—including one inspired by knafeh, a traditional Palestinian dessert—and remains a popular spot for younger patrons, particularly students from nearby schools.

Despite their competition, the relationship between the two families is cordial. Jimmy Rukab and Baladna manager Imad Imseeh, a second-generation family member whose relatives arrived in Ramallah as refugees following the 1948 Arab-Israeli war, maintain close personal ties, with their children attending the same Quaker school.

The shops’ respective loyalists exhibit strong preferences often influenced by family tradition or personal experience. Some, like Azza Jabr, a mother of two, identify firmly with Baladna, while others, including longtime customers Issa and Sana Asfour, express unwavering allegiance to Rukab’s. The appeal of both establishments lies not only in the distinctive texture of their booza, which is thickened with gum arabic from acacia trees and prepared by pounding and stretching rather than churning, but also in the sense of continuity and stability they provide amidst the changing political and economic challenges facing the West Bank.

Ramallah, a city of roughly 70,000 residents, endures ongoing strain from Israeli restrictions and regional tensions that have impacted its economy and tourism. Yet, regular customers continue to seek out these traditional ice cream shops as a source of familiarity and comfort. For many, including Palestinian expatriates who return each year, a visit to Rukab’s or Baladna is a cherished ritual.

The rivalry between these two iconic ice cream purveyors reflects a broader narrative of resilience and adaptation in Ramallah. While the competition is good-natured, it underscores how deeply intertwined these local businesses are with the city’s identity, offering a shared space where old and new generations find common ground, all while savoring a uniquely Levantine treat.