In Mexico’s Cholula valley, residents are confronting a growing water crisis that has transformed once-abundant rivers into scarce, costly commodities. The region, historically sustained by a network of rivers and springs fed by the snowcapped Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl volcanoes, has seen significant environmental degradation over the past few decades. The Bátan River, which once flowed through Santa María Acuexcomac, has dried up due to decades of water diversion primarily to support the expanding state capital, Puebla de Zaragoza.

Amalia Azcatl Cuautle, a native who returned after 25 years in the United States, expressed sorrow over the loss of the river, recalling childhood memories of bathing and washing clothes there. The disappearance of these waterways has deeply affected the valley's agricultural economy as well as the cultural and spiritual fabric of local Indigenous communities. Many place names in the area, such as Cholula, Acuexcomac, and Coronango, reflect the historical abundance of water and its significance to the region.

Since the 1990s, climate change and human activities have drastically altered this relationship with water. Rivers and springs have dried or become polluted, and wells have run dry, forcing many residents to rely on purchased piped or bottled water. Rapid population growth has been a key factor in escalating demand. The municipality of San Andrés Cholula, for example, saw its population grow from under 38,000 in 1990 to over 154,000 by 2020, placing increased pressure on public services and natural resources.

Urban development has also reshaped community dynamics, with real estate expansion pushing residents out and undermining traditional social ties. Environmental impacts have harmed local ecosystems, affecting flora, fauna, and water sources. These changes have fueled a growing Indigenous-led movement advocating for the defense of water and land. Activists cite a long history of resistance against land dispossession, which they say has intensified due to the irreversible environmental damage seen today.

In 2021, residents and activists occupied and shut down a large bottling plant owned by Danone’s subsidiary Bonafont, accusing it of overextracting groundwater. Shortly afterward, a massive sinkhole appeared in Santa María Zacatepec. Danone, referencing a 2021 technical report by Mexico’s National Water Commission (CONAGUA), denied that overexploitation caused the sinkhole, attributing it instead to the area's natural geohydrological characteristics. The company also affirmed its compliance with legal water use permits.

The shutdown of the bottling plant galvanized regional activism. In 2022, the Nahua community of Santa María Zacatepec hosted the first National Assembly for Water and Life, facilitating collaboration among Indigenous water defenders nationwide. The movement continued into 2024, when protesters closed a privately owned landfill near San Andrés Calpan and San Pedro Cholula, alleging that it was contaminating groundwater. The closure followed a viral photograph showing water seeping from a landfill excavation site, raising alarm about potential aquifer contamination.

Activists established a permanent camp outside the landfill, applying soil and planting trees to filter toxic leachate. Mexico’s Federal Attorney for Environmental Protection officially ordered the landfill’s closure in August 2024. Despite these gains, organizers emphasize that the struggle is ongoing. Lawyer and longtime activist Juan Carlos Flores Solís noted the difficulty of achieving a definitive victory but stressed the importance of collective resistance to defend water and life.

Local officials acknowledge the severity of the crisis and the need for both government action and societal change. Alejandra Zamora Martínez, San Andrés Cholula’s water and sewer secretary, stated that public understanding of water’s finite nature is crucial since groundwater was long considered an inexhaustible resource. The complex challenges facing Cholula’s water supply require coordinated efforts across sectors.

On the fifth anniversary of the sinkhole’s emergence this spring, community members gathered to mark the occasion not as a celebration, but as an act of continued resistance. Anastacio Pérez Juarez, a founding member of the local community radio and water defender, described the sinkhole as a symbol of nature’s distress and a reminder of the urgent need to protect vital water resources.