In the Northumberland village of Craster, L Robson & Sons continues a traditional method of preparing kippers, maintaining a culinary heritage that dates back to the mid-19th century. The smokehouse, now run by fourth-generation owner Neil Robson, has been producing cold-smoked herrings since 1906, preserving a technique largely unchanged for more than a century.

Craster, a coastal village known for its picturesque stone harbor and views of Dunstanburgh Castle, is marked by the distinctive tar-blackened chimneys of Robson’s smokehouse. The process begins with carefully selected herrings sourced from Norway, as local stocks were depleted following overfishing and a six-year North Sea fishing ban in the late 1970s. Today, the company handles approximately 300 tonnes of fish annually, choosing Norwegian herring that meet precise specifications and are frozen shortly after being caught.

At the smokehouse, the fish undergo a traditional preparation involving gutting, butterflying, and brining. The brine’s salinity is gauged by whether a King Edward potato floats within it—a method Neil Robson insists upon over other potato varieties. After a 20-minute soak in the brine, the herrings are hung on wooden tenterhooks and placed in brick kilns, where fires fueled by whitewood shavings and oak sawdust generate smoke that infuses the fish overnight. The resulting kippers develop a golden and copper-toned skin, with rich, oily flesh beneath.

Historically, kippers were a staple British breakfast, prized for their affordability and nourishing qualities. They were especially popular among mining communities who frequently traveled to Craster on holiday. However, the tradition has waned in recent decades, partly due to changes in fishing practices and shifts in consumer preferences. The number of smokehouses in the region has diminished significantly, with only two remaining in nearby North Shields.

Despite these challenges, Robson has adapted to contemporary markets, with retailers like Waitrose serving as major customers. Robson expressed wariness about extended credit terms from some chains, highlighting the difficulty of managing perishable products within modern business frameworks.

Neil Robson demonstrated the traditional method of serving kippers, known as jugging, which involves gently heating the fish in hot water. Consumers are advised to eat the kipper carefully due to the fine bones that remain in the fish—a characteristic that contributes to its authenticity but requires some care.

This enduring practice at L Robson & Sons offers a glimpse into a culinary tradition that balances heritage and modern commerce, keeping the rich flavors and techniques of Craster’s kippers alive amid changing tastes and industry pressures.