Jim Whittaker, the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest and a pioneering figure in outdoor retail and environmental advocacy, died Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington. He was 97.

Whittaker’s historic ascent of Everest occurred in 1963 when he and Sherpa climber Nawang Gombu successfully reached the peak, a landmark achievement that came a decade after the first-ever summit by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. His climb helped spark widespread interest in mountaineering across the United States and thrust Whittaker into the national spotlight.

Born and raised in Seattle, Whittaker developed an early passion for climbing with his twin brother, Lou, scaling significant peaks in the Pacific Northwest as teenagers. Their training and determination culminated in the Everest expedition, which established Jim Whittaker as a leading figure in American mountaineering.

Beyond his climbing achievements, Whittaker played a significant role in the outdoor industry. He was the first full-time employee of Recreation Equipment, Inc. (REI), starting in 1955, and later served as the company’s president and CEO from 1971 to 1979. Under his leadership, REI's membership expanded from approximately 250,000 to more than 900,000, reflecting the growing enthusiasm for outdoor recreation in the United States.

Whittaker was also deeply involved in conservation efforts. His advocacy contributed to the establishment of protected areas including North Cascades National Park and the Pasayten Wilderness in Washington, as well as Redwood National Park in California. He emphasized the importance of preserving wild spaces, championing environmental stewardship before it became a mainstream movement.

His life and career intertwined with prominent historical figures, notably his friendship with Robert F. Kennedy. Whittaker climbed a 14,000-foot peak with Kennedy in Canada, a mountain later named Mount Kennedy in honor of the late senator. He was present at Kennedy’s deathbed following the assassination in 1968.

Throughout his life, Whittaker continued to lead climbs that embodied his belief in connection and cooperation. Among them was the 1990 Mount Everest International Peace Climb, which united climbers from the United States, Soviet Union, and China during a period of geopolitical tension. He also led a notable 1981 ascent of Mount Rainier with 10 climbers with disabilities, highlighting his commitment to inclusivity in outdoor pursuits.

Whittaker’s climbing résumé included more than 100 ascents of Mount Rainier, a mountain he respected for its unpredictability despite its relatively moderate elevation. Former Washington Governor Jay Inslee praised Whittaker’s enduring influence on both climbing and community spirit, likening his legacy to the lasting prominence of Mount Rainier itself.

Jim Whittaker is survived by his wife, Dianne Roberts, their three sons, three grandchildren, and one great-grandchild. His family remembered him as a figure of warmth, humility, and optimism who shared a lifelong passion for adventure and the natural world.