Renowned chef José Andrés visited the Los Angeles Times Test Kitchen in late May to demonstrate a lesser-known Spanish egg dish as part of the publication's video series “Chef That!” The appearance came shortly after the passing of Andrés’s close friend and culinary mentor Aglaia Kremezi, whose influence he acknowledged as a stabilizing force during challenging times.

During the session, Andrés reflected on Spain’s culinary traditions and showcased a recipe for huevos Venta El Toro, a dish named after a family-run restaurant near Cádiz and inspired by Casa Lucio in Madrid. The dish features eggs fried in olive oil served over twice-fried potatoes, accompanied by sautéed onions and a selection of Spanish cured meats, including Jamón Ibérico, morcilla, and chorizo. Andrés emphasized the importance of olive oil in Spanish cooking, joking about Spain’s superiority in frying potatoes over other countries.

The cooking process involved frying the potatoes initially at a lower temperature to prepare them for mashing, followed by a second frying alongside the eggs. To achieve the classic texture, Andrés demonstrated frying eggs in a shallow pool of olive oil at moderate heat, effectively poaching them to maintain soft, delicate whites rather than crispy edges. The eggs were then plated atop the potatoes with the onions and meats, creating a rich, rustic dish that Andrés described as one of his favorites.

Andrés also briefly demonstrated an alternative egg-frying technique, using hotter oil to yield a crisp, lace-like egg white structure he likened to a “big shoe.” This creation was then topped with a slice of Spanish ham, offered as a canapé-style bite suitable for entertaining and open to gourmet additions such as foie gras or caviar.

The chef’s visit complemented his recent work on his latest cookbook, “Spain My Way: Eat, Drink and Cook Like a Spaniard,” which explores a wide range of Spanish recipes—from traditional dishes to avant-garde techniques developed in Spain’s renowned culinary vanguardia, or cutting edge. The book includes both intricate preparations like spherification, used to create liquid olives, and simpler versions of classic dishes, such as a “lazy tortilla” made with packaged potato chips instead of homemade fried potatoes.

Known for balancing a high-level humanitarian mission through World Central Kitchen with joyful and approachable cooking, Andrés’s appearance offered an intimate glimpse into Spanish cuisine's core element: the egg. He connected this tradition to Spain’s cultural history, mentioning Diego Velázquez’s 17th-century painting “Vieja Friendo Huevos,” which captures the timeless simplicity of frying eggs over an open flame.

Though the chef had other media commitments, he expressed enthusiasm about continuing to explore different cooking techniques, underscoring his ongoing passion for sharing Spain’s culinary heritage with broader audiences.