At 55, Goh Mok Ai has returned to carry on a family tradition that spans nearly five decades with the reopening of Lai Heng Handmade Teochew Kueh in Jurong East. The business, originally founded by his father in 1979 at a Bukit Panjang coffee shop, marks a revival of the traditional kueh craft that Goh once resisted but has come to embrace.

Goh’s early years in the family trade were marked by long hours and demanding tasks. From the age of nine, he assisted with making kueh—including feeding soaked jasmine rice into a heavy stone mill and stirring the mixture over a cast-iron wok for nearly an hour. Despite his early involvement, he strongly resisted taking over the business, famously telling his father at age 12 that he did not want to inherit the trade.

In 1984, the family shifted operations to Yuhua Market & Hawker Centre, but with limited space at their HDB flat, they transitioned from selling kueh to char kway teow. After completing national service, Goh pursued a culinary career, working his way up from kitchen helper to sushi chef at a Japanese restaurant. The discipline and precision he learned there later influenced his approach to kueh-making.

At his father’s request, Goh returned to the hawker scene in 1994 to help with the stall, initially selling char kway teow. Following his father’s passing, he switched to selling Hakka yong tau foo, inspired by his wife’s heritage, but the venture did not meet with strong sales. By 2002, Goh shifted focus back to traditional Teochew kueh, aided by his eldest sister and with a modest investment in equipment and renovations. The decision paid off, and the business steadily grew, eventually expanding in 2015 by acquiring adjacent space.

Lai Heng Handmade Teochew Kueh offers four varieties, available steamed or pan-fried: Koo Chye Kueh filled with Malaysian garlic chives, Cabbage Kueh with Beijing cabbage, Soon Kueh featuring jicama filling, and Png Kueh. Prices range from $1.30 to $1.70 depending on the type and preparation. Goh prefers Malaysian garlic chives, citing their tenderness compared to alternatives sourced from Thailand.

Despite the success, Goh acknowledges the challenges of sustaining the business, particularly in hiring and keeping assistants, largely due to his rigorous work standards. His three sons, aged 16, 23, and 25, began helping at the stall once they turned 12, but Goh has eased their responsibilities to focus mainly on wrapping, seen as the less demanding part of the process.

While he hopes his sons might continue the family tradition, Goh recognizes the hardships involved and does not press them to commit. For him, the motivation to persist lies in his appreciation for the kueh and the cultural heritage it represents. “I feel a responsibility to continue it,” Goh says, emphasizing the importance of preserving Teochew culinary culture for future generations.

Lai Heng Handmade Teochew Kueh operates at 01-217/218 Yuhua Market & Hawker Centre, Block 347 Jurong East Avenue 1, open from 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. on weekdays and until 4 p.m. on weekends and public holidays, closing on Mondays. Advance orders can be made via telephone.