In a family home in Subang Jaya, 68-year-old Soh Lay Choo has embraced a culinary journey that began later in her life, inspired in part by her son, renowned chef and Terra Dining founder Chong Yu Cheng, widely known as YC. The Michelin-starred progressive Malaysian restaurant in Kuala Lumpur reflects YC’s innovative approach, which contrasts with and complements his mother’s evolving traditional cooking.

Lay Choo’s introduction to cooking intensified after the passing of her mother when she was 38. Before then, she would assist her mother in the kitchen but had not learned the intricacies of ingredients and techniques. With her parents moving in to live with her, she found herself cooking regularly for her father, Soh Kim Yew, now 93 years old. Initially learning simple dishes like fried vegetables, she gradually honed her culinary skills, a process she recalls with humor. Her father has since become a dedicated fan of her cooking, especially her homemade popiah with a signature chili sauce that he refuses to accept from elsewhere.

Despite YC’s joking claim that he became a chef because of his mother’s early cooking, the pair share a strong bond over food and family heritage. Lay Choo admits that she is now learning a great deal from her son’s expertise, as he helps her refine and elevate traditional recipes she has mastered over the years. YC, once hesitant and fearful of kitchen tasks as a teenager, has developed into a celebrated chef whose techniques have influenced his mother’s culinary repertoire.

Among their cherished family dishes is Terengganu lor mee, a distinctive Hokkien delicacy from their hometown in Kuala Terengganu. This rich noodle dish, featuring crab, prawns, pork, kampung chicken, and beansprouts in a savoury-sweet gravy, is enlivened by Terengganu kicap manis—a umami-rich sweet soy sauce infused with fermented anchovy sauce known as budu. Both mother and son note the difficulty in sourcing authentic Terengganu kicap manis today, as the production remains a small-scale, fading cottage industry.

YC has introduced restaurant techniques to enhance the lor mee, aiming to intensify its depth of flavor while maintaining its traditional elements. His adjustments underscore his professional approach to heritage cooking, blending authentic tastes with modern culinary methods.

The dynamic between mother and son exemplifies a mutual exchange of culinary knowledge. Lay Choo continues to draw inspiration from YC’s skills, while YC honors his heritage by refining and celebrating family recipes. Together, they preserve and reimagine the flavours of their cultural roots through a shared passion for food.